Free Furniture Plans to Build a Round Provence Beam Table

12.05.10 By //
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Provence Dining Table

For those of you who loved the Provence Beam Dining Table, but prefer a more compact and rounded version, this table is perfect for you! Isn’t she gorgeous? Love her…wish I didn’t have an overabundance of dining tables already. Perhaps Someone local needs a gift?

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!


  • 2 – 2×6 at 10′
  • 3 – 2×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×6 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 10′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4×4 at 6′
  • 1 – 4×4 at 23 1/4″ Center Post
  • 4 – 1×6 at 8″ Base Feet
  • 1 – 2×6 at 34 1/2″ Base
  • 1 – 2×6 at 23″ Base
  • 2 – 2×6 at 14 1/2″ Base
  • 2 – 2×6 at 8 3/4″ Base
  • 2 – 2×6 at 34″ Table Top
  • 2 – 2×6 at 46″ Table Top
  • 2 – 2×6 at 53 1/2″ Table Top
  • 2 – 2×6 at 56 1/2″” Table Top
  • 1 – 2×6 at 60 1/2″ Table Top
  • 1 – 2×4 at 55″ Top Support
  • 2 – 2×4 at 20″ Top Supports
  • 4 – 2×4 at 13 1/2″ Angled Beams – top
  • 4 – 2×4 at 13 3/4″ Angled Beams – bottom

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut your bases. One side will be whole, the other will be 2 halves that will sit astride the whole base leg. Below are the diagrams for both. Each angle is a 45 Degree at the measurements indicated, and I have given you the long and the short of it, so to speak…meaning if you don’t have a Miter Saw or a Compass or Protractor, you can still make these cuts by marking off the long and short and creating a line between the 2. **You won’t fasten together yet, but you will need them to be prepared. Side 1 and Side 2::

Cut your Upper Table Pieces to size and assemble as shown to the upper most pieces of the leg bases. Fasten the Center Post to the Center Leg Base (red) using 3″ Screws, secure the leg base halves (orange) to the center leg base (red) using a Pocket hole system set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws from underneath. Secure the Table Support Halves (green) to the Center Table Support using you rpocket hole system set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, then fasten the Center support to the Center Post using 3″ Screws.

Cut and fasten the Beams in place. They will connect to the upper bases and the table supports with 3″ screws at an angle into the beams. Each side of each beam is cut at a different angle. The upper angle of the upper beams are at a 50 Degree angle, the Lower angle of the Upper beams are at a 40 Degree angle. The Upper angle of the lower beam is cut at a30 degree angle and the lower angle of the lower beam should be cut at 60 Degrees.

Fasten your leg Base Pieces together and then fasten each half to the center leg base. To fasten the pieces together use 2″ screws to fasten the base feet (red) to the center base board (aqua), then use 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the center base board (aqua)to the upper base foot that is already attached to the Table unit (green). They will fit together as shown directly below, further down I have shown how to fasten together using your Pocket Hole System. If you aren’t using a Pocket hole jig, you can use a strip of your 1×6 and run it along the bottom to hold both sides in place to the main leg base. You would need an 8″ piece or so…just fasten across the “bridge” with 2″ screws. This doesn’t show the upper portion as it should be connected at this point, it’s easier to see the way it fits together like this, so just understand you have the rest of the table assembled so far (except for the table top itself).

If you aren’t purchasing a solid round table top, you will need to create your circular top by cutting the pieces to size and attaching them, and then creating your circle and cutting it out with a jig saw. To secure your top boards together, use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2″ stock and fasten every other board to the 2 boards on either side of it with your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Begin at the 2nd board in from each side (aqua colored) and place your pocket holes in either direction. Once your boards are all fastened together, and you have cut your circular shape, attach to the table supports from underneath using 2 1/2″ screws.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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