Can you tell I’m on a coffee table kick lately? We covered the Cheswick Coffee Table (plans for that are here) and I will tell you it’s because I am in desperate need of a coffee table myself, but I just can’t quite decide on one. See, I need a smaller coffee table, one that is actually more like the size of an end table…this works best since we have a sofa that has a Chaise on one side and still leaves us with room to maneuver around the room. So I continue my search for inspiration, with full knowledge that whichever design I choose, will have to be sized down to teeny tiny proportions…I am thinking this little friend here, would be fabulous with just the one section rather than both..what do you think?
- 1 – 2×6 at 10’
- 1 – 2×6 at 8’
- 1 – 2×6 at 6’
- 1 – 2×3 at 10′
- 1 – 1×3 at 10’
- 1 – 2×2 at 10’
- 2 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1/2 sheet of 1/2” plywood
- 1″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Screws
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Screws
- 2-1/2″ Wood Screws
- 2″ Wood Screws
- 2″ Finish Nails – optional to fasten the top down, can also use screws.
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 6 – 2×3 at 16 1/2″ Legs
- 6- 1×3 at 16 1/2″ Legs
- 2 – 1×6 at 20 3/4” Aprons
- 2 – 1×6 at 18″ Side Aprons
- 4 – 2×2 at 19 1/2” Drawer Guides
- 1 – 2×2 at 18” Supports
- 8 – 1×2 at 20 3/4″ Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 18″ Rails
- 2 – 1×2 at 19 1/2″ Supports
- 5 – 2×6 at 43” Table Top – Center
- 2 – 2×6 at 27 1/2” Table Top – Bread Boards
- 2 – 1×6 at 45 1/2” Bottom Shelf – Inside Boards
- 2 – 1×4 at 45 1/2” Bottom Shelf – Outside Boards
- 2 – 1×4 at 19 1/8” Drawer Faces
- 2 – 1/2” Ply at 16 7/8” x 18 3/4” Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – 1/2” Ply at 2 3/4” x 19 1/4” Drawer Sides
- 2 – 1/2” Ply at 2 3/4” x 16 7/8” Drawer Backs
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Leg Base: The Legs will each be a 2×3 and a 1×3 joined to form an almost 3×3 leg post. Glue and Screw Together using 2” screws and a countersink bit to predrill. Fasten the aprons in place, in the center of the inside of each leg or set back 3/4” from the inside of each leg. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the aprons to the legs. Fasten the supports in place. These exist to allow you to attach your top easily from underneath, without the need to screw through top leaving visible fasteners. Attach the supports using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and 1 1/4” screws and glue to fasten them to the aprons.
You might also create pocket holes around the apron perimeter for fastening the table top in place in a later step. It would behoove you to do this prior to fastening the aprons in place, if you plan to attach the.
Fasten the Rails in place. Attach the rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Note that the rails sit 3” from the bottom of the legs. Fasten your drawer guides to the inside of the legs as shown below. Use 2 1/2” Screws and glue. Attach the Top Trim (green) to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Fasten the remaining drawer face trim in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock to fasten the lower trim (green) in place and your 2” screws for fastening the side trim in place (yellow), be sure to countersink and use glue.
Fasten the supports in place. The 2 on the outside are 1×2’s and the center support is a 2×2. Fasten in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock for the 2 on the outside and set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue.
Create your Table Top and your Bottom Shelf. For the Table Top, use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the boards together as shown below. For the Bottom Shelf fasten your boards together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Build the drawers, you will need 2. The Drawer Face is constructed using a 1×4 and the remaining pieces of the drawer are made from 1/2” plywood. Use your pocket hole system set for 1/2” stock and your 1” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten together. The bottom will be inset and the face will be attached using 2” finish nails and glue and fastened directly to the sides and bottom.
Fasten the Top to the Legs and Supports, use 2” Finish Nails and glue to attach. Attach the bottom shelf to the lower rails using 2” screws and glue or place pocket hole screws all around the edges of the bottom shelf and fasten to the rails using your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you choose to fasten the bottom shelf in place using 2” screws be sure to countersink and pre-drill for the most professional appearance. The Top will overhang the base by 2 1/2” on all 4 sides, and the bottom will site flush with the top of the lower rails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
1 comment on “Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Benchwright Coffee Table”
I used these plans and modified them a little bit to use some joinery techniques that I wanted to learn. The project came out great. It was my first project. Thank you much for sharing these plans. If you would like to see the pictures of how it turned out just email me back and I’d be happy to share them. I also have my plans in SketchUp if you are curious to see the joinery.