We covered the 38 Inch version here, but what if you need something a bit longer? Well this should do the trick! This simple bench or banquette is a stunner with it’s clean lines and slightly coastal feel! This is the perfect little seating piece for outside, perhaps with a dining table or even configured with a corner unit into a nook like arrangement. Another fabulous addition to our Chesapeake Collection and one that would look equally as fabulous inside or out! Did I mention that this will cost you less than $15 to build? Yep, true story!
Jig Saw – if you prefer a more angular back leg you can use a circular saw or table saw as well.
Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
1 – 2×2 at 6’ OR if 8’ is cheaper or all that your store sells, purchase that!
1 – 2×4 at 6’
7 – 1×3 at 8’
1 – 1×2 at 10’ OR 2 – at 6’
2 – 2×4 at 35 1/2” Back Legs
2 – 2×2 at 16 1/2” Front Legs
6 – 1×3 at 45” Front / Back Aprons and Back Rest Slats
2 – 1×3 at 19 1/2” Side Aprons
13 – 1×3 at 19 7/8” Seat Slats
2 – 1×2 at 45” Seat Cleats
2 – 1×2 at 11 1/2” Decorative Back Supports
Consider using a specie of wood suitable for outdoor use such as Cedar or Redwood, and if you use a less expensive specie be sure you seal your table well to avoid a premature and untimely death of your piece.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut out Your Legs: Begin with a 2×4 and cut it down to a 2×2 at 35 1/2” in height. As long as you have a vertical straight space that is 2 1/2” in height at the 14” mark (up to 16 1/2” mark) then you can essentially make the shape how you like. The diagram below shows the back legs with a slight curve just like the inspiration piece, however if it’s easier for you to have an angular leg that is straight lined, you can do that also. Just be sure your leg is approximately 1 1/2” in width all the way down with the straight section at the Front Edge of the 14” mark and that it hits the top back corner and bottom back corner of the 2×4. Think Arc or Triangular shape, either will work. Create this with a jig saw or a circular saw depending on whether or not you will go with a curve or an angle.
Fasten both Legs Together using the Back Aprons: This should be flush with the front side of the legs at the 14” mark. To attach use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Construct the Front Leg Unit: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the Apron to the 2 front legs by attaching it 3/8” back from the front edge of the front legs.
Attach the Side Aprons: Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to attach the aprons to the Front and Back Legs. All Aprons should be at the same height and the side aprons will sit flush with the inside of the legs.
Attach your Seat Cleats: Use 1 1/4” Wood Screws or nails and glue to attach the cleats in place on the front and back aprons. They should sit flush with the bottom of the aprons.
Tack on the Seat Slats: Use 1 1/4” screws or nails and glue to fasten the seat slats in place. Space them about 1” apart and secure them to the cleats.
Attach the Back Rest Boards and Decorative Supports: Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the back rest boards in place. The first board (top) should be set 1/2” down from the top of the back legs and each subsequent leg should be spaced about 1 1/2” apart. Keep the Back Rest Boards flush with in line with the front edge and curve (or angle) of your back legs. Once they are fastened in place, tack on the decorative supports using 1 1/4” screws or nails and glue. Depending on the angle of the top portion of your back legs, it’s possible that the decorative supports will only touch at the top board and bottom back rest board. That is perfectly fine, so you can suffice by securing them only at the top and bottom of the supports to the top and bottom back rest boards. Center them vertically and space them 13” from the Back Legs on either side. This piece has been designed to work with the PotteryBarn Cushions if you prefer to purchase it separately, and if you prefer to make them yourself, the cushion dimensions should be 21” deep x 48” wide and 2 1/2” thick.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.