Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Potterybarn Inspired Tao Closed Media Stand

06.17.11

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Yahoo for Loren for bringing us this amazing plan! One more project from the request list completed! Check, Check, and Yahoo! My posts are going to be a bit intermittent for the next few days, or at least posted at very odd times. We are traveling for a very unexpected death in the family and my hours will be odd and sparse to say the least. But I am glad to report we survived a very harrowing experience through the Sierras, with only one almost, sort of, spinning tire event and several major road closures and of course a mere 6 hours to get from El Dorado Hills to Tahoe. This normally takes no more than 2 hours in moderately bad weather. Today however, the weather was traumatizing and I am happy to be alive!

Dimensions for This Project

$50 +/-

Tools 

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.

Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Jig Saw – for the decorative accents at the bottom

Circular Saw, Table Saw or Router to create grooves in plywood – this is optional as you can also choose to join boards together for the same look.

Lumber 

1 – 2×2 at 10’

2 – 2×2 at 8’

3 – 1×2 at 10’

1 – 1×2 at 8’

1 – 1×3 at 6’

1 –1×6 at 10’

1 Sheet 3/4” Plywood

**1/2 Sheet (4’x4’) of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF (optional if you choose to add a back and how large you want that back, see below)

Materials 

**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

**3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

2 1/2” Pocket Hole Screws

2” Finish Nails

Hardware: Hinges and decorative hardware for doors and drawer if desired

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List 

4 – 2×2 at 28” Legs

2 – 2×2 at 17” Side Panel Rails

4 – 2×2 at 37” Front and Back Rails

2 – 1×2 at 37” Front and Back Rails

17 – 1×2 at 17” Side Panel Rails Supports

2 – 1×2 at 14 3/4” Vertical Front and Back Stiles

8 – 1×2 at 14 5/8” Door Frames

2 – 1×6 at 15 1/4” Drawer Sides

1 – 1×6 at 35 3/8” Drawer Back

1 – 1×6 at 36 7/8” Drawer Front

1 – 3/4” ply at 35 3/8” x 14 1/2” Drawer Bottom

2 – 3/4” Ply at 17” x 22 1/4” Side Panel Inserts (this can also be 6 – 1×6 at 22 1/4”)

2 – 3/4” ply at 14 5/8” x 11 5/8” Door Panels (this can also be boards joined)

2 – 3/4” ply at 17” x 37” Top and Shelf

1 – 1/4” ply at 24 1/8” x 40” Back Panel (this is optional or at least can be sized according to your needs. By leaving this open in the back you don’t have to worry about plugs, however it will look more polished with a back in place and a strategic hole for cords.

Instructions 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

Build your Sides: Fasten the Rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. Fasten the Panels to the Legs and the rail using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. To secure the lower rail, secure to the legs If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, use 3” screws and glue. The panels will sit centered on the legs. The panels will sit 3 7/8” from the bottom of the legs.

Step 2

Step 2 

Attach the Rails and Vertical Pieces: Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system use 3” screws and glue to attach. The rails will sit flush with the top of the legs and panels and the Lower Rails (1×2’s) will sit 3 7/8” from the bottom and should be fastened in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 3

Step 3 

Fasten the Supports in place: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can use 3” screws and glue from the outside of the rails, just be sure to countersink. The placement for the supports will be the same on the top and bottom rows, however the middle row will have a wider spread for the outside 2 supports, all others will be spaced precisely the same distance, though it isn’t really that important you aim for perfect accuracy here.

Step 4

Step 4 

Carve the Decorative Pieces: Cut 2 1/2” squares and then carve an arc from one corner at about a 2” radius. Fasten in place using Finish Nails and glue.

Step 5

Step 5 

Create the Doors and Drawer: You have the choice again to use either plywood for the door panels and to route out 2 grooves as shown below or to join 3 boards together side by side and then surround by the frame pieces. If you choose to do the boards joined together, use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. To build the drawer you can use 1×6’s for the front, back, and sides, and can use your router to carve grooves into the drawer face, or if this isn’t an option, simply use a 1×6 on either side of a 1×2 to create the drawer front, join together using your pocket hole system. The bottom of the drawer will be inset as will the back. Join the back to the sides using your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Join the sides to the front using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the bottom to the front, back and sides, using your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can build the drawer using 2” screws and glue and the doors using 3” screws and glue.

Step 6

Step 6 

Add the Top and the Shelf: Use Finish Nails and glue to secure or secure from underneath using screws and glue through the supports.

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note 

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Disclaimer 

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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