- Tape Measure
- Kreg Jig (pocket hole system)– optional and you can secure using wood screws and a countersink bit.
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 6 – 1×3 at 10’
- 1 – 2×3 at 6’
- 2 – 1×8 at 8’
- 1 – 1×8 at 6’
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4” Wood Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
- *2 – 2×3 at 14 1/4” Legs – for a 7” clearance under the bed, add 7” to the actual width of your 1×8’s and that will be the height of your legs.
- *2 – 1×8 at 76” Bed Rails – add 1 or 1 1/2” to the length of your mattress and cut your bed rails to that length.
- *1 – 1×8 at 37” Foot Board – subtract 1 1/2” from the width of your mattress to find your exact required foot board length.
- *2 – 1×2 at 76” Cleats – this length will match your bed rails length above
- *Between 10 and 12 – 1×3 at 39 1/2” Slats – add 1” to the width of your mattress to determine the required length of your slats.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Structure: The Bed Rails will sit 1 1/4” bed from the Inside Edges of the Legs and will fasten to both the legs and the headboard base using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. You will fasten your foot board to the Legs in the same manner only the board will sit flush with the inside of the legs. The Bed Rails and Foot Board will all sit flush with the top of the legs.
Tack on the Cleats: Use 1 1/4” Screws from inside the Bed Rails along with glue to secure.
Lay down the Slats: These should sit spaced 3 – 5” apart and can be fastened in place using 1 1/4” screws and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.