This beauty is inspired by the Potterybarn Chelsea Collection (allegedly) and will hold a Queen Sized Mattress with the Storage Unit and a King sized mattress without the storage unit. This plan is for the platform bed portion, and the plans for the storage unit have also been done (plans for the storage unit can be found here), so you can pick your poison!
I would like to mention that this project can be modified to taste, kind of like food… Choose bun feet, decorative legs like what I show in the image above, or perhaps a more spindly leg…opt for molding instead of 1×2 trim, decrease the width of the perimeter boards, add half or quarter round trim to the edge of the perimeter, this is entirely up to you! This is meant to be adaptable to fit your home's decor and furniture style. You will have these options all the way through this collection as far as trim style and the level of decorative features you choose to add.
- Tape Measure
- Miter Saw – optional – if you prefer to miter the trim. Not required.
- Kreg Jig – optional
- Pneumatic Nailer – optional as you can use a hammer and finish set to attach the trim or screws if you are using 1×2 boards for trim
- 4 – 1×6 at 8'
- 12 – 1x4at 8'
- 4 – 1×3 at 8'
- 4 – 1×2 at 8'
- 1 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 4' x8' you may need to buy a full sheet if your store won't cut one up for you.
- **1/2 sheet – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 2'x8'
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws if you are using a Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ finish nails
- 5 Legs of your choice in style
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1×4 at 80″ (Outside Frame – wood toned)
- 2 – 1×4 at 78 1/2″ (Outside Frame – turquoise)
- 5 – 1×4 at 78 1/2″ (Bottom Boards – yellow, and additional Frame Boards – wood toned)
- 3 – 1×4 at 73″ (Interior Spacers)
- 4 – 1×3 at 78 1/2″ (Frame Boxes in Red)
- 2 – 1×6 at 84″ (Top Perimeter Boards
- 2 – 1×6 at 73″ (Top Perimeter Boards)
- 4 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 15 5/8 x 73″
- 2 – 1×2 at 81 1/2″ (Trim)
- 2 – 1×2 at 80″ (Trim)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
The diagram below is the view from underneath and shows the attachment of the Bottom Boards (yellow) to the Frame. Use 1 1/4″ Screws or your Kreg Jig on a 3/4 setting to fasten boards together. The bottom boards are set 1/4″ down from the edge (technically the bottom edge though in this diagram it appears as if the top edge) of the frame.
Turn the entire frame over and attach the 1×3's (red) to the yellow bottom boards. By setting the bottom boards down 1/4″, this now allows the 1×3's to be flush on the top with the 1×4 perimeter. Also attach the remaining 1×4 boards (wood toned) to complete the frame.
Begin attaching the Top Boards. I have designed this using 1×6's for the perimeter though you could also use 1×4's and attach quarter round trim to the outside edge of that. The boards stop just on the inside edge of the 1×3's that form the boxes on the outside. This leaves most of them free for attaching other boards in the next steps. There will be a 2″ Overhang for the perimeter boards.
This next step involves some style and cost choices…you can elect to fill the entire space inside the perimeter boards with plywood, or scatter 1×4's throughout as I have done to minimize the amount of plywood necessary, or you can line the entire interior with boards of a size of your choosing (I would recommend 1×4's for cost benefit and no smaller than 1×3's or you will fastening them for days on end!).
Once you have covered your top, attach your trim just under the edge of the board overhang. I have used 1×2's in this example, but you can get as fancy as you like. Fasten with 1 1/2″ finish nails if possible. If you don't have a nail gun and the finish nail set is not working out for you please feel free to fasten using 1 1/4″ screws . Be sure to countersink if you are taking this route. Honestly this is the route I typically choose because I don't have a nail gun, and I can't seem to make a hammer do as it's told.
Once you trimmed out your piece, attach the feet in each corner and one in the center for added strength. You will attach them directly into the bottom yellow boards (yours will not actually be yellow, only mine in the diagrams are, unless of course you paint it yellow, in which case you will need to take note of which boards of mine are yellow in the diagram!).
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.