This particular platform is technically a full sized platform, however, as you will see in the next couple of days, it's actually the first step in a fabulous twin sized bed with storage. This can be used as is for a full sized mattress or can be built to accommodate a twin after the second phase is constructed! Plans for the Storage Component can be found here
I would like to mention that this project has many aspects that can be modified to taste, kind of like food… You can opt for bun feet, or something a bit like I have done above, a spindly leg…you can choose to use molding instead of 1×2 trim, and you can decrease the width of the perimeter boards and attach half round trim to the outside edge, or keep it simple…This is meant to be adaptable to fit your home's decor and furniture style. You will have these options all the way through this collection as far as trim style and the level of decorative features you choose to add.
- Tape Measure
- Miter Saw – optional – if you prefer to miter the trim. Not required.
- Kreg Jig – optional
- Pneumatic Nailer – optional as you can use a hammer and finish set to attach the trim or screws if you are using 1×2 boards for trim
- 1 – 1×6 at 10'
- 2 – 1×6 at 8'
- 7 – 1×4 at 8'
- 2 – 1×4 at 10'
- 1 – 1×4 at 6'
- 4 – 1×3 at 8'
- 2 – 1×2 at 8'
- 1 – 1×2 at 10'
- 2 sheets – 3/4″ Ply at 4' x8'
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws if you are using a Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ finish nails
- 5 Legs of your choice in style. These are the type I used in my drawings.
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1×4 at 75″ (Outside Frame – wood toned)
- 2 – 1×4 at 57 1/2″ (Outside Frame – turquoise)
- 5 – 1×4 at 73 1/2″ (Bottom Boards – yellow, and additional Frame Boards – wood toned)
- 4 – 1×3 at 73 1/2″ (Frame Boxes in Red)
- 2 – 1×6 at 79″ (Top Perimeter Boards
- 2 – 1×6 at 52″ (Top Perimeter Boards)
- 3 – 1×4 at 52″ (Interior Spacers)
- 4 – 3/4″ Plywood at 14 3/8 x 52″
- 2 – 1×2 at 76 1/2″ (Trim)
- 2 – 1×2 at 59″ (Trim)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
The diagram below is the view from underneath and shows the attachment of the Bottom Boards (yellow) to the Frame. Use 1 1/4″ Screws or your Kreg Jig on a 3/4 setting to fasten boards together. The bottom boards are set 1/4″ down from the edge (technically the bottom edge though in this diagram it appears as if the top edge) of the frame.
Turn the entire frame over and attach the 1×3's (red) to the yellow bottom boards. By setting the bottom boards down 1/4″, this now allows the 1×3's to be flush on the top with the 1×4 perimeter. Also attach the remaining 1×4 boards (wood toned) to complete the frame.
Begin attaching the Top Boards. I have designed this using 1×6's for the perimeter though you could also use 1×4's and attach a half round trim to the outside edge of that. The boards stop just on the inside edge of the 1×3's that form the boxes on the outside. This leaves most of them free for attaching other boards in the next steps. There will be about a 2″ Overhang for the perimeter boards.
This next step involves some style and cost choices…you can elect to fill the entire space inside the perimeter boards with plywood, or scatter 1×4's throughout as I have done to minimize the amount of plywood necessary, or you can line the entire interior with boards of a size of your choosing (I would recommend 1×4's for cost benefit and no smaller than 1×3's or you will be at this for days on end!).
Once you have covered your top, attach your trim just under the edge of the board overhang. I have used 1×2's in this example, but you can get as fancy as you like. Fasten with 1 1/2″ finish nails if possible. If you don't have a nail gun and the finish nail set is not working out for you please feel free to screw the trim on using 1 1/4″ screws. Be sure to countersink if you are taking this route.
Once you trimmed out your piece, attach the feet in each corner and one in the center for added strength. This center leg is really not that necessary if you are simply using this as a platform bed, but if you plan to go on to the next step and build the storage console on this, having the center support will just allow you to store more and have that added weight without worrying about it. You will need to drill a hole the appropriate size for the feet and their attachment. You will attach them directly into the bottom yellow boards (yours will not actually be yellow, only mine in the diagrams are).
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.