Free Woodworking Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Cross Frame Console Desk

06.25.11 By //

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This piece (and the entire collection) is such an easy build and packs a ton of style into each little board. This is perfectly sized for a console table behind your sofa or as a desk workspace. Perhaps if you live in a small space, this is ideal to serve both purposes. Place it behind your sofa, and pull up a desk chair of some sort, and really maximize your living space.

Dimensions for This Project



Tape Measure





** Kreg Jig – Optional, and can be built without one, but will have a few tricky attachments for this project and as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one.


1 Sheet – 3/4″ Plywood 4'x8' (since you really only need half of this length-wise or about 2'x8', check to see if they will do this for you, my local Orange will cut up sheets for me in 2'x4' sections, so it is possible they might consider cutting it the other direction…this will save you about $10)

1 – 2×3 @ 10' (cut 4 legs from this)

1 – 2×3 @ 8' (cut 3 legs from this)

1 – 2×3 @ 6' (cut the bases and horizontal bases from this)

2 – 2×2 @ 8' (from each board you will cut one 55 1/2″ frame piece and one 20″ frame piece)

2 – 1×3 @ 8' (from each board you will cut one 60″ trim piece and one 20″ trim piece)


**Kreg Jig Owners: 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws and 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws

2 1/2″ Screws

2″ Screws

2″ Finish Nails (you can also use the 1 1/4″ Screws for the table trim if you prefer not to buy this or don't have a finish nail gun and aren't so handy with a hammer and those tiny little nail heads)

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List 

7 – 2×3 @ 28 1/2″ (Legs and Center Cross Bar)

2 – 2×3 @ 17″ (Bases)

2 – 2×3 @ 11″ (Horizontal Bases)

2 – 2×2 @ 55 1/2″ (Frame)

2 – 2×2 @ 20″ (Frame)

1 – 3/4″ Ply @ 58 1/2 x 20″ (Table Top)

2 – 1×3 @ 60″ (Trim)

2 – 1×3 @ 20″ (Trim)


Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

Attach the Center Legs to their Bases and attach the Center Cross Bar: Use 2 1/2″ Screws or 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws. If you are using a Pocket Hole System you can create your pocket holes along the sides of your boards or underneath for the most out of the way attachments. If you place them underneath, you will not likely need to fill or plug them, however it does make for a bit more of a difficult time of fastening them together. Try draping your base boards over a table width-wise and allowing the legs to dangle down while you clamp and screw.

Step 2

Step 2 

Attach the Outside Cross Bars: This is the trickiest portion of this plan if you aren't using a Kreg Jig. You will need to attach the Outside Cross Bars to the Bases by fastening them from a spot near the attachment. You will fasten from the outside edges of each Cross Bar, inward at an angle into your Base (forming an X shape with your screws when they are both fastened). Attach the Outside legs using 2 1/2″ Screws, and be sure to countersink if you aren't using a Pocket Hole System. Be careful attempting to countersink at an angle. Go slow and don't apply to much pressure to quickly or you will definitely snap your countersink bit!

Step 3

Step 3 

Use your Pocket Hole System to attach the frame pieces to each other and then attach the Frame to the Legs (see diagram below for example. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, fasten frame together using 2 1/2″ Screws. Use 2 1/2″ Screws to fasten the frame downward into each leg. This frame serves the purpose of providing something to attach your table top to, so that you won't have to make visible holes in it, and also acts to provide a bit of extra support. If you prefer to fasten the table top (next step) to the frame using your Kreg Jig, you will want to create the pocket holes for that attachment while you are creating them for the frame. You will set your Kreg Jig for 1 1/2″ stock for the frame and for attaching it to the legs…HOWEVER, you will set it for 3/4″ Stock for attaching the table top to the frame. Space them every 6″ or so and they will point in an upward direction whereas the others will point down into the legs or horizontally connecting the frame pieces.

Step 4

Step 4 

Fasten the Table Top to the Frame from underneath. Use 2″ Screws. If you are using your Kreg Jig to attach you will have already created your Pocket Holes in the previous step, with your Jig set for 3/4″ stock. You will use 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws to fasten the Table Top to the frame.

Step 5

Step 5 

Trim out the Table Top: Use 2″ Finish Nails to attach, and fasten to the table top and the frame. If you have trouble with this (because you don't have a finish nail gun and doing it by hand is hard) you can also use your 1 1/4″ Screws, just be strategic in where you place them (as in space them evenly and in a balanced manner) and how many you use along each edge, and be sure to countersink.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School


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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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