Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
4 – 2×2 at 10’
3 – 1×2 at 8’
1 – 1×3 at 6’
3 –1×12 at 10’ – can also be plywood or mdf
1 – 1×12 at 6’ – can also be plywood or mdf
1/2 Sheet (2’x8’) of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF
**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
**3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2” Pocket Hole Screws
7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails
2” Finish Nails
4 – 2×2 at 76 3/4” Legs’
4 – 2×2 at 32 3/8” Rails
5 – 1×2 at 32 3/8” Rails
6 – 1×2 at 11 1/4” Side Trim
1 – 1×2 at 35 3/8” Top Trim (add 2” if this unit will stand alone)
1 – 1×3 at 35 3/8” Top Trim (add 2” if this unit will stand alone)
2 – 1×12 at 72 3/4” Side Panels
6 – 1×12 at 32 3/8” Shelves
1 – 1×12 at 35 3/8” Top (add 2” if this unit will stand alone)
1 – 1/4” ply at 35 3/8” x 73 1/2” Back Panel
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your Sides: Fasten the Panels to the Legs using your pocket hole systems set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, use 3” screws and glue. The panels will sit flush with the inside of the legs, leaving 3/4” on the outsides to allow for trim later. The panels will sit 4” from the bottom of the legs.
Attach the Rails: Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system use 3” screws and glue to attach. The rails will sit flush with the top of the legs and panels and on the bottom they will site flush with the bottom of the panels.
Fasten the Shelves and Rails in Place. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can use 2” screws and glue from the outside of the panels, just be sure to countersink. Place pocket holes along the back edge of each shelf in addition to the sides for attaching to the back side rails in the next step. Attach the Backside Rails: Fasten the rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. Then use your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the rails to the shelves allowing the rails to sit flush with the top of the shelves.
Add the Side Trim: Use your 1 1/4” Finish Nails and glue to attach.
Fasten the Top and the Top Trim in place: Use your 2” finish nails and glue to secure. The 1×2 on the backside will sit completely flush with the 2×2 just below it, while the 1×3 in the front will overhang on the front side by 1”. The sides are to be flush with the legs here, with no overhang so that you can stack these next to one another without having an issue with the top overhanging. If this is to be a single unit without others next to it, you can give the top overhang to give it a more decorative appearance.
Fasten the back in place using 7/8” finish nails or brad nails and glue.
Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.