Free Woodworking Plans to Build Upper Wall Cabinet to Bridge the Fridge

06.30.11 By //

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Have you always wanted to have the Kitchen of Your Dreams, but didn't think you could? Too expensive? Not a DIY project you feel comfortable handling? Say no more…

We continue our Dream Kitchen Series with an Upper Wall Cabinet to Bridge the Fridge.



Tape Measure





**Kreg Jig – optional, can be done without…but honestly not sure why you would want to. This tool simplifies the building process exponentially.

** Finish nail gun – optional, but will make the process faster and easier especially if you are working on an entire kitchen!


**You can buy full sheets if you plan to build several cabinets.

**1/4 sheet = 2'x4' for this plan

1/2 sheet- 3/4″ Plywood (a lower grade is fine).

1/4 sheet – 1/2″ Plywood (a lower grade is fine)

1/4 sheet – 1/4″ Plywood (this will be showing on the sides of outside cabinets, but will not show on the back or inside cabinet walls).

1 – 1×2 at 8'

1 – 1×2 at 6'

1 – 1×3 at 6'


**Kreg Jig Owners: 1″ Pocket Hole Screws, 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws

**2″ Screws – only necessary if not using a Pocket Hole System

1 1/4″ Screws

5/8″ Screws

2″ Finish Nails

3″ drywall screws or wall dog anchors

Wood Glue

Wood Filler


Finishing Supplies

Cut List 

2 – 1/4″ Ply @ 23 1/4″ x 18 1/8″ Outside Panels

2 – 1/2″ Ply @ 23 1/4″ x 14 7/8″ Inside Upper Panels

2 – 1/2″ Ply @ 1 3/4″ x 23 1/4″ Inside Lower Panels

2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 23 1/4″ x 35 1/2″ Shelves (Top and Bottom)

2 – 1×2 @ 34 1/2″ Cleats

2 – 1×2 @ 18 1/8″ Sides of Face Frame

1 – 1×2 @ 33″ Top Rail Face Frame

1 – 1×2 at 14 1/8″ Center Vertical Stile Face Frame

1 – 1×3 @ 33″ Bottom Rail Face Frame

2 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Solid Trim for Shelves @ 16 1/2″


Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

Cut your Outside Panels to size as indicated in the diagram below.

Step 2

Step 2 

We will begin constructing the interior panels: I have made this so easy for you in the way I have designed this. You don't need a table saw to create Dadoes…it's just plain easy.

Cut your interior panel pieces to size (this will be mirrored on the opposite side, so truly you will need 4 pieces total).

Step 3

Step 3 

Attach the cleats at the back of your side panels. It will sit flush with the top and back of the panels on both sides and flush with the top and back of the bottom strip panel as well. These can be attached using your Pocket Hole System set for 1/2″ stock or with 1 1/4″ Screws from the outside of the panels. This is how you will ultimately attach your cabinet to the wall using your dry wall screws.

Step 4

Step 4 

Insert your bottom shelf and the top. The bottom shelf will help you align your interior panels so they “fit” the outside panels properly. Attach the bottom shelf using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock. It will attach to the bottom interior panels. Attach the top to the interior panels, and cleat. Use your Kreg Jig to attach from the interior panels underneath set for 1/2″ stock or 5/8″ screws from the top down into the interior panels.

Step 5

Step 5 

Use 5/8″ screws to attach the Outside Panels to the Interior Panels, from the inside. Be sure to countersink.

Build the Face Frame: use your Pocket hole System to build the frame, and place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) and the vertical center stile, set for 3/4″ stock. Then attach to the cabinet using 2″ finish nails. If you aren't using a PHS, attach the Frame pieces directly to the cabinet using 2″ finish nails.

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School


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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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