We are well underway with out Hudson Collection! This console table is perhaps one of my faves, though I am fairly certain I constantly think this…this piece was provided for us by our Fab Friend Loren, who has so graciously donated a number of pieces in this collection, that I will be providing full plans for this week! I hope you enjoy them as much as I do!
Showcase: Built From These Plans
$75-$100
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
- Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 8 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- 1 – Base Molding of your Design choice at 8’
- 1 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood
- 1/2 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood
- **3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4” finish nails
- 2” Finish Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 30 1/2” Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 43 1/2” Front/Back Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 11 1/4” Side Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 12 1/2” Center Supports
- 2 – 1×3 at 48” Top Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 10 1/4” Top Frame Rails
- 4 – 1×3 at 11” Shelf Frame Rails
- 8 – 1×2 at 43 1/2” Shelf Frames
- 6 – 1×2 at 11” Shelf Frame Rails
- 4 – 1×2 at 6” Drawer Dividers
- 6 – 1×2 at 13 7/8” Drawer Trim
- 6 – 1×2 at 5 15/16” Drawer Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 16” Top Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 49 1/2” Top Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 28” Side Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 11 1/4” Side Trim
- 6 – 1×6 at 12 1/2” Drawer Sides
- 3 – 1×6 at 12 3/8” Drawer Backs
- 3 – 1×6 at 13 7/8” Drawer Fronts
- 2 – 3/4” ply at 43 1/2” x 11” Shelves
- 2 – 3/4” ply at 28” x 11 1/4” Sides
- 3 – 3/4” ply at 12 3/8” x 11 3/4” Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 3/4” ply at 48” x 15 1/4” Top
- 1 – 1/4” ply at 43 1/2” x 29” Back
- 1 – Base Molding at 48”
- 2 – Base Molding at 15”
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your Base: Secure the Aprons using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The Side and Front Apron will sit flush with the front and outside edges of the legs, while the Back Apron will sit 1/4” in from the back edge of the back legs to allow for the Back of the unit later. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Aprons to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.
Build the Shelf Frames: the 2 shelves on the bottom (which are actually shown at the top of the image below, for the purpose of showing how to assemble them) will be the same, while the upper two (shown at the bottom) will be different from them and each other. For the Bottom Shelves you will be attaching 1×2 rails to the front and back using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The upper shelves will be built as shown below with the middle upper shelf frame having 1×3’s in the center and 1×2 rails on the outsides while the upper most frame (again shown on the bottom) will be built of 1×2’s only. Connect the Rails to the Frame using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 3” screws to fasten the shelves and rails in place. Be sure to countersink and use glue.
Fasten the Shelf Frames in place. Secure using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue and fasten the front and back shelf frame pieces to the Legs. If you aren't using a pocket hole system you will secure using 3” screws and glue, be sure to countersink. The Shelf Frames will also sit 1/4” in from the Backside just as above, to allow for the Back in a later step.
Fasten the Sides and the Drawer Dividers in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. Fasten the Drawer Dividers together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to secure together and to the existing frame already in place. Fasten the Side Panels in place and to the existing Frames, using 2” Finish Nails and glue.
Fasten the Top Frame and Back in Place. Using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, build the Top Frame and then fasten in place using your 2” Finish Nails and Glue or 1 1/4” screws from underneath the existing frame. Tack on your Back Panel after you cut a half circle out for plugs, use glue and 1 1/4” finish nails to fasten. You can also use 3” Screws and glue to build the Top Frame, just be sure to countersink.
Build the Drawers. The bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×6’s. The Front Trim will sit a bit higher than the drawer front, on the top side of the drawer fascia. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front and back and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue.
Build and Attach the Top. The top will sit on the Top Frame and will be fastened in place using 2” finish nails and glue. Trim out the front and the sides of the top, using 1×2’s mitered in the corners for the most professional appearance. Fasten the trim for the sides in place. Miter the corners and attach using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
