This is a fabulous way to store your dinnerware or china and is easy to build and budget friendly. This will blend seamlessly with your Dream Kitchen if you simply match the wood specie and trim.Perfect height for basic dinner plates and of course can be adjusted accordingly if you have a specialized size.
- Tape Measure
- 5/8″ Drill Bits
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards
- Kreg Jig – Optional
- Finish Nailer – Optional and can substitute with a hammer and finish nail set
1/2 sheet- 3/4″ Ply
1/4 sheet – 1/2″ Ply
1/2 sheet – 1/4″ Ply
2 – 1/2″ round dowels at 6' or 11 linear feet total.
1 – 1×3 at 6'
1 – 1×2 at 10'
- 1″ Pocket Hole Screws – if using a Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4″ Wood Screws
- 5/8″ Wood Screws
- 5/8″ Brad Nails
- 2″ Finish Nails
- 3″ Dry Wall Screws or Wall Dog Anchor Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1/4″ Ply at 15 1/8″ x 11 1/4″ Outside Panels
- 1 – 1/4″Ply at 29 1/2″ x 15 1/8″ Back
- 2 – 1/2″ Ply at 11 7/8″ x 10 7/8″ Upper Interior Panel
- 2 – 1/2″ Ply at 1 3/4″ x 10 7/8″ Lower Interior Panel
- 2 – 3/4″ Ply at 29 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ Shelf and Top
- 13 – 1/2″ Round Dowels at 11 1/2″ Racking
- 3 – 1×2 at 28 1/2″ Cleats and Top Rack Support
- 4 – 1×2 at 39″ Face Frame Top of box, and top trim of front/ back box
- 2 – 1×2 at 15 1/8″ Face Frame Stiles (Sides )
- 1 – 1×2 at 27″ Face Frame Rails (Top)
- 1 – 1×3 at 27″ Face Frame Rails (Bottom)
This china or dinnerware storage is a fabulous addition to a dream kitchen and is really simple to build. Cost effective too! If you have any trouble, please contact me and I'm happy to help.
To drill your dowel holes, use a bit slightly larger than the dowel dimension and put a collar on your drill to stop you from drilling all the way through your bottom shelf. You only need to drill in about 1/4″, so placing even a piece of masking tape on your drill bit at 1/4″ mark will let you know when you need to stop and pull your bit back out.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut your Outside panels to Size.
Cut your Interior Panels to size.
Fasten the Cleats to the Interior Panels. Use a Pocket Hole system set for 1/2″ stock and your 1″ Pocket hole Screws, if you can, and otherwise use 1 1/4″ Screws from the outside of the interior panels to fasten the cleats in place.
Drill your Holes in the remaining Cleat/Top support and Your bottom shelf. Use a 5/8″ Drill bit and place a collar on your bit at the 1/4″ mark. this will keep you from drilling into your shelf for anything deeper than 1/4″. You don't want your racking dowels to fall through, so this is fairly important. You can simply use a piece of tape and wrap it around your bit at the 1/4″ mark to let you know visually when you need to stop drilling. space your holes approximately 2″ apart and begin your holes 2 3/4″ in from the outside edge of your shelf. This would equal 2 1/4″ in from the outside edges of the cleat/top support. Then space very 2″ after that.
Fasten your cleat/top support and shelf in place after you insert your racking dowels. The Cleat/top support will sit flush with the top of the interior panels and the shelf will divide the 2 interior panels.
Then fasten your Top (red) in place as well. If you can secure your shelf and top with a pocket hole system, it will make things stronger and easier, otherwise you can simply screw down and glue in place.
Fasten the Back in Place. Use 5/8″ Screws or Brad Nails.
Create your Face Frame. Use your Pocket Hole system on the rails set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ Pocket hole Screws, otherwise use glue and 2″ finish nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.