Free Woodworking Plans to Build an RH Inspired Printmaker's Sideboard Dresser

07.28.11 By //
Project Image

When I saw this piece in my Restoration Hardware Catalog, I knew I had to have it, had to HACK it, and wouldn't be able to think about any other pieces until I finished it. Use this piece as a Dresser or a Sideboard and it will be amazing either way.

  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Drill

** Saw – Optional, Table Saw, Miter Saw or Circular Saw, something that will allow you to make a bevel cut running the length of the board for trim pieces.

** Kreg Jig – Optional, and can be built without one, but will have many unsightly attachments (make sure you countersink to prevent this as much as possible if you aren't using a Pocket Hole System) for this project and as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one. This project in particular will benefit from hidden fastening.



**Option 2: Add 1 additional 3/4″ Sheet of Ply

**Option 3: Add 14 – 1×3 at 6' or 7 – 1×3 at 12'

  • 4 – 3/4″ Sheet of Plywood (4'x8')
  • 2 – 1/2″ Plywood (4'x8')
  • 4 – 2×3 at 8'
  • 2 – 2×3 at 6'
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8' (or if you can find them 4 at 8' and 1 at 6')
  • 3 – 1×3 at 8'
  • 6 – 1×3 at 10'
  • 2 – 1×2 at 10'
  • 1 – 1×2 at 6'



**Kreg Jig Owners: 1 1/4″ Coarse Thread Pocket Hole Screws (PHS) and 2 1/2″ Coarse Thread PHS if using a softer wood specie (substitute with 1 1/2″ Fine Thread for Hardwood).

  • 3″ Screws
  • 2″ Screws
  • 1 1/4″ Finish Nails (you can use Screws if you don't have a nailer and can't use a finish nail set well, if your life depended on it…like me)
  • 12 – 16″ Side Mount Drawer Slides
  • 12 – Drawer Pulls in a style of your choice. the inspiration piece uses this variety below in a Rubbed Bronze
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies


Cut List 

2 – 3/4″ Plywood at 88 1/2 x 17 3/4″ (Bottom & Top)

1 – 3/4″ Ply at 87 1/2 x 27 1/2″ (Back)

6 – 3/4″ Ply at 27 1/2 x 17″ (Side Panels & Dividers)

9 – 3/4″ Ply at 27 x 17″ (Shelves)

8 – 2×3 at 32 1/2″ (Legs)

2 – 2×3 at 91″ (Tops of Frame)

4 – 2×3 at 17 3/4″ (Lower Stretchers)

15 – 2×2 at 27″ (Cross Bars – Frame)

6 – 1×3 at 17 3/4″ (Trim).. if Mitering. If not then 4 – 1×3 at 17 3/4″ and 2 – 1×2 at 17 3/4″

2 – 1/2″ Ply at 29 x 17 3/4″ (False Side Panels)

12 – 1/2″ Ply at 24 1/2 x 15″ (Drawer Bottoms)

6 – 1×3 at 24 1/2″ (Top Drawer Front and Back)

6 – 1×3 at 16 1/2″ (Top Drawer Sides)

21 – 1×3 at 26 3/4″ (Top Drawer Face, Bottom Drawer Faces)

9 – 1×2 at 26 3/4″ (Bottom Drawer Faces)

** Option 2 (see step 8)

3 – 3/4″ Ply at 27 x 17 3/4″ (Top Inserts)

2 – 3/4″ Ply at 27 1/4 x 17 3/4″ (Side Inserts)

** Option 3 (see step 8)

21 – 1×3 at 27″

14 – 1×3 at 27 1/4″



If you can use reclaimed wood for any or all of the outside of this piece, it will really add something to it. If you can't find reasonably priced reclaimed wood, and you still want the look, see my Reclaimed Wood tutorial, it has instructions for creating the look.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.


Step 1
Step 1

Step 1 

Build your Box: Use 2″ Screws and Glue or Use your 1 1/4″ PHS if you are a Kreg Owner. Build each Compartment (there will be 3) prior to fastening to the Back and Bottom. This will make attaching the Shelves easier (or possible). When you have completed each compartment, fasten to the bottom and back leaving a 1″ space between them. The Bottom will be 1″ longer than the rest of the box or 1/2″ longer on either side. Fasten the top to the Back, Sides and Dividers after you have finished with the steps above. It will also be 1″ longer than the overall length of the box.

Then Attach the top.


Step 2
Step 2

Step 2 

Build your Frame. This will really benefit from using a Kreg Jig by giving it added strength and hiding unsightly connections, not to mention making certain connections easy to accomplish. Use the 2 1/2″ PHS if you are using a Kreg Jig. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, use 3″ Screws for fastening the Top and Legs together, and 1 1/4″ Screws at an angle from the Leg into the Cross Bars, from the inside.

Back Side, Front Frame, respectively:


Step 3

Step 3 

Attach the Lower Stretchers connecting the Front and Back Frame: Use 3″ Screws if you aren't using a Kreg Jig, if you are using one..stick to your 1 1/2″ PHS. These should be placed 3 3/4″ from the bottom of the Legs and the top will fall 3/4″ below the top of the Bottom Cross Bars.

Step 4

Step 4 

Set the Box into the Frame. The Bottom of the Box should sit in 1 1/4″ from the Outside edge of the Frame on both sides. Fasten the Box to the Stretchers, Legs, and Tops of the Frames all along the length of the Unit. Use 2″ Screws.

Step 5

Step 5 

Fasten the False Side Panels to the Outside Bottom Stretchers as well as the Top and Bottom Box Panels. Use 1 1/4″ Screws or Finish Nails for this step.

Step 6
Step 6

Add your Trim to the Top and Sides. If you are able to miter, then use 1×3 boards for your trim and miter the length to create a seamless trim that wraps the top and sides. If you aren't able to Miter, use a 1×3 on the top and a 1×2 on the side, fill the seam with wood filler and sand to erase the obvious line between the two. Add the trim to the top in the same position as your legs.

Side Wrapped Trim, Top Trim:


Step 7
Step 7

Step 7 

Build the Drawers: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and fasten the Drawer Face on from the inside of the Drawer Front. If you are using reclaimed wood (or even you aren't, you will want to alternate the direction of the grain on your Face boards for the bottom drawers. This will highlight the interest and add to the overall look. The bottom Faces are comprised of 2 – 1×3's separated by a 1×2. Use a 16″ Side Mount Drawer Slide to attach.

Top, Bottom Drawers:


Step 8
Step 8

Step 8 

Below there are 3 possible methods for finishing out this piece. You can decide which you prefer…Use Finish nails and Glue to attach any additional pieces.

Option 1 – Leave the piece as is upon completion of the Drawers,
Option 2 – Fill depressed areas with Plywood inserts,
Option 3 – Fill Depressed areas with 1×3 Boards: (this appears to be most similar to the inspiration piece).


Finishing Instructions 

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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