A very simple build, with big impact style and design! This piece is awesome for entryway home organization! Everything would have its own place, and of course the numbers on the doors could be replaced with letters or names, even pets names… So fun!
- Tape measure
- Safety Gear
- Kreg Jig
- Table saw and Miter, Jig, or Circular saw
- Brad nailer
- 1- 1×2 at 8’
- 1-1/2 x 2 at 4’
- 2- scraps of 1×2 each at least 14-1/4” long
- 2- sheets** ¾” plywood
- 1- sheet** ¼” lauan or hardboard
- ** The doors can be made from beadboard paneling, too, but you will have to buy a sheet of ½” plywood for backing as the beadboard is generally ¼”.
- ** Scraps of lauan or hardboard can be used as long as the seams are hidden behind shelves or dividers!
- 1-1/4” pocket screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Countersink bit
- 4 – hinges
- 2 – handles
- Shelf pins
- Coat Hooks, if desired
- Numbers of your choice – Wood, stencils, etc.
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 15” x 70-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Sides
- 1 – 15” x 30-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Bottom
- 1 – 15” x 68” of ¾” plywood – Divider
- 1 – 15-1/2” x 32” of ¾” plywood – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 14-1/4” long – Fixed Shelf Supports
- 2 – 14-1/4” x 15-5/8” – Fixed Shelves
- 1 – 32” x 70” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 30-1/4” – Lower Filler
- 1 – ½ x 2 at 32” – Lower Trim
- 2 – 1 x2 at 14-3/4” – Upper Trim
- 2 – 14-3/8” x 66-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Doors
- X – 14-1/4” x 15” – Adjustable Shelves – “X” is the quantity you choose!
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Measure from the top and mark the holes for the shelf pins (for the adjustable shelves). Do not drill the holes completely through the board! Also, drill holes in the top of the side pieces for attaching the top.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom piece. Attach the bottom to the sides 1-1/2” up from each end with 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Cut the top and attach to the sides with the back being flush and the front overlapping by ½”. Check for square.
Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Also, measuring from the top and using the same spacing as the sides, mark the holes for the shelf pins. These holes can be drilled all the way through the board so that the spacing is the same on both sides. Center it in the cabinet as indicated and secure with pocket screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Using a drill with a countersink bit, drill holes directly through the face of the supports and attach to the sides at 11” from the bottom with 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the pieces for the fixed shelves as indicated. Using a drill with a countersink bit, drill holes through the top of the shelves into the supports as indicated. Secure with 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the ¼” lauan or hardboard for the back. If you are using scrap pieces, make sure the seams will fall behind the shelves or divider. Secure with glue and brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the lower filler, the lower trim and the upper trim. Attach the lower filler with glue and brad nails to the front underside of the bottom, between the sides. Attach the trim piece to the front of this piece overlapping the sides with glue and brad nails. Attach the upper trim between the sides and the divider.
Cut the pieces as indicated for the doors. The doors will have a 1/8” gap around all sides. Attach the hinges to the door and shim in place in the opening. Secure the hinges to the locker. Attach the handles to the doors.
Cut any additional shelves, as desired. Add coat hooks, also.
The numbers can be stenciled on and distressed for a vintage look. Painted wood or MDF cutouts would work well also. If building more than one locker cabinet, the lockers can be attached together with screws.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.