What a fabulous table this is, especially for budding artists and little crafters in our lives! The paper roll will keep them busy creating for hours on end!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
**1 – 3×3 Posts at 8’
1 – 1×3 at 4’
1 – 1×3 at 8’
1 – 1×4 at 4’
1 – 1×4 at8’
1 – 1” Round Dowel Rod at 2′
1/4 sheet of 1/4” plywood
Full sheet of 3/4” plywood
**If 3×3 posts are not available in your area or are too expensive, 1×3 lumber can be face-glued to 2×3 lumber to create posts. Keep in mind that the depth will differ by 1/4” so the aprons need to be adjusted accordingly (longer by 1/2″ total).
**Purchase 1 additional 1×3 at 8’ and 1 additional 2×3 at 8′ for this step.
1 1/4” pocket hole screws
1 1/2” screws
1 1/4” spade bit or hole saw
1 1/2” brad nail
Drawer knobs or handles
4 – 3×3 at 22 1/4” (Legs)
1 – 1×4 at 40” (Long Apron)*
2 – 1×4 at 20” (Short Aprons)
4 – 1×4 at 23½” (Table Top Supports)
3 – 1×4 at 4” (Apron Pieces on Drawer End)
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 27”x49” (Top)
2 – 1×4 at 14” (Drawer Faces)
4 – 1×3 at 11½” (Drawer Sides)
4 – 1×3 at 13” (Drawer Box Fronts and Backs)
2 – 1/4″ plywood 13”x13” (Drawer Bottoms)
** If making your own posts from 1×3 lumber, add ½” the length of these pieces.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Using the saw of your choice, cut the posts to the length indicated.
Cut the apron pieces as listed above and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4″ stock). Two at each end will be sufficient. Also add pocket holes to one long end of each of the shorter aprons to secure the table top. (These will face to the inside.) Attach the aprons flush with the front of the legs using the 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. Don’t forget to use glue for an extra strong joint!
Cut the pieces for the paper roll. Use a compass to draw a 1 1/4” radius on one end and cut out with a jig saw. Bore a 1 1/4” hole through each piece. Secure to one end of the table, at the short apron, by screwing it to the apron from the inside. You can also secure it with a brad nailer that shoots 1½” brads.
Cut the top supports and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4″ stock). Also add pocket holes to one long end of each board to secure the table top (sized for 3/4″ stock). Cut the 4” apron pieces that will be placed next to the drawers. Drill pocket holes in only two of these boards, on one end only so that the pieces can be mounted to the legs. You will build one “U” shaped box and two “L” shaped boxes. Space the supports on the long aprons as indicated and secure with glue/screws. The drawer slide hardware will be mounted on the lower end of these supports in each drawer opening.
Cut and assemble the pieces for the drawer boxes. Attach 1/4” plywood to the bottom and secure with glue and brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the boxes but DO NOT attach the drawer faces until you have the drawers installed.
A quick and accurate way to line the faces up is to pre-drill the holes for the knobs or handles, line up the drawer face so it fits in the opening and put a screw through the holes into the drawer box. Pull the drawer out and fasten the face to the box from the inside. Finish drilling out the knob/handle holes.
A view of how the drawer will look when the front is added. DO NOT add the drawer faces until the drawer is installed! See the previous step.
Cut the table top to the measurements indicated. The top will hang over the table by 1” on each long side and 2” on each short side. Secure to table frame using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws through pocket holes drilled on long sides of 20” aprons and supports. Remove one drawer at a time while attaching the top to keep the openings square.
Add nail-on furniture glides to bottom of legs, if desired. I’ve also used adjustable glides on my tables.
To finish the edges of the tabletop, use iron-on edge banding or sand the edges and leave them exposed.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability..
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the legs and aprons, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.