Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Paneled Armoire

12.17.11
Project Image

This armoire is great with its clean lines and simplicity… The large pieces should make for a quick and easy build, too! It can be used as a pantry, an organized entertainment center, or for clothing storage. Extra shelves or a clothes hanging rod can be added, also!

Dimensions 
Dimensions for This Project

Tools 

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter (A table saw would be best!)

Drill

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber 

3 sheets ¾” plywood

1 sheet ¼” lauan or hardboard

1 – 2×2 at 8’

1 – 2×2 at 6’

Materials 

1¼” pocket hole screws

2” screws

Small nails or 1” brads

Countersink bit for Drill

Hinges

Knobs or Pulls for Doors

Shelf Pins (Optional, if adding extra shelving)

Wood filler

Sandpaper

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List 

2 – 21” x 67” ¾” plywood – Sides

3 – 21” x 42½” ¾” plywood – Fixed Shelf**, Top, Bottom

1 – 21” x 25½” ¾” plywood – Lower Divider

2 – 21” x 21¼” ¾” plywood – Small Shelves

1 – 22” x 67” ¾” plywood – Door

1 – 21 7/8” x 67” ¾” plywood – Door

10 – 11” x 18” ¾” plywood – Door Panels

2 – 2x2x 41” – Leg Frame

3 – 2x2x19” – Leg Frame, Support

4 – 2x2x8” – Legs

** If you are going to add extra shelves, you will need to buy one ½ sheet of ¾” plywood. The shelves will be adjustable so they will be approximately ¼” shorter than the fixed shelves to allow for the shelf pins.

Instructions 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Step 1 

Cut the pieces for the sides, fixed shelf, top, and bottom. With the Keg jig set for ¾” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shelf, top, and bottom. Assemble with spacing as indicated and make sure the cabinet is square.

If you are going to add adjustable shelves, the shelf pin holes would need to be drilled during this step. The holes will need to be drilled approximately 3″ in from the front and the back on each side, and evenly spaced. The spacing will be determined by the amount of adjustment you want in these shelves. In other words, the holes could be spaced at 4″ if you want the shelves to be spaced at 4″ increments. It is a good idea to invest in a shelf pin jig (or make your own) that has all of the holes evenly spaced. You just line it up, drill, and go!

The lower picture shows how these shelves will look.

Remember that the adjustable shelves will be at least 1/4″ shorter than the fixed shelf.

Step 2

Step 2 

Cut the pieces for the leg frame. Set your Kreg jig for 1½” material before drilling the holes. Center the support piece and screw into place. Set your cabinet on top and allow ¾” from the front of the frame to the front of the cabinet (for the doors) and ¼” from the back of the frame to the back of the cabinet (for the back). It may be easier to attach the cabinet to the frame from the inside. Drill countersunk holes into the cabinet bottom over the frame and attach with 2” screws.

Step 3

Step 3 

Cut the pieces for the vertical divider and the small shelves. Set your Kreg jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in ends for assembly. It would be easier to attach the small shelves to the divider before attaching to the cabinet. Make sure the pocket holes in the divider face into the larger opening and not toward the small shelves to make it easier to drive the screws in.

Step 4

Step 4 

Cut the piece for the back from the ¼” lauan or hardboard. If you are using this armoire as an entertainment center, you may want to drill large holes for power cords before attaching to the back. Attach with small nails or a brad nailer.

Step 5

Step 5 

Cut the pieces for the doors. Note that one door will be 1/8” narrower than the other door to allow for a gap in the center. This makes it easier to close the doors. If the pieces were cut exactly the same size, they may rub in the center and it creates a lot of extra work to try to sand the edges evenly to make it fit!
Cut the pieces for the panels. The easiest way to assemble this would be to completely sand all pieces and draw a grid on each door. The panel pieces will be spaced 2” from the top, bottom, sides, and in between the other panels EXCEPT for the narrower door… The panels will be spaced 2” from the top, bottom, and in between the other panels but will be 1 7/8” from the center. Glue the panel pieces in place and secure with brad nails.
Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. The type of hinges to use is a matter of personal preference. Concealed hinges can be used but I find them hard to line up.

Add your knobs or handles.

Finishing Instructions 

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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