- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 2 – 1×4 at 3’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 1 – 1×2 scrap at 1’
- 2 – 1×2 scraps at 13-1/4” each
- 2 – ¾” square dowels at 3’
- Scrap of ¾” plywood at 13” x 13-3/4”
- Scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard for back leg template (4” x 26”)
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1” brads
- Router with flush trim bit
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1×4 at 26” – Back Legs
- 4 – 1×3 at 11-1/2” – Aprons
- 1 – 1×2 at 11-1/2” – Upper Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 13-1/4” – Front Legs
- 5 – ¾” square dowels at 11-1/4” – Spindles
- 1 – 13” x 13-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Seat
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Draw out the back leg on the piece of lauan or hardboard to create a template.
- To make a template:
Draw your piece on a scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard. Cut it out with a jigsaw and smooth any rough edges with a sander. Check the fit of the template against any pieces already built. For example, if it is a back chair leg template, the chair should already be constructed to this point. Any adjustments that need to be made can be made to the template before cutting the actual lumber. Drill a hole in the template for hanging and label it for later use.
- To cut out your piece with a template:
Trace the template onto your piece of lumber and roughly cut out the shape making sure to stay outside of the lines. Attach the template to the piece with strong double-sided tape. Using a router and a flush trim bit, make sure you set the height of the bit so the guide will run along the edge of the template. Cut around the template. Depending on the length of your bit, you may have to make more than one pass around the template. In other words, if the piece you are cutting is 1½” deep and your bit is 1” deep, you will cut the piece around the template. Adjust the depth of the bit, then make another pass with the router. The guide bearing will not follow the template the second time but will follow the piece that has already been cut. Clear as mud? Here is a great demo on how to do this: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-use-router-templates-and-bearing-guides/index.html
Using a template will make your pieces more consistent and uniform, and you’ll have it in case you decide to build more than one!
To remove the adhesive, use a product like Un-du which will not harm the material you are using.
Place the template on the 1x4s for the back legs and cut out.
Cut out the 1×2 for the upper back and the 1×3 for the back apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back pieces. Attach to back legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated. The back side of these pieces should be flush with the back edge of the legs.
Cut out the pieces for the remaining aprons and the front legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown. Don’t forget to check for square!
Cut the pieces for the spindles from the ¾” dowels. Drill one pocket hole in each end of the back edge. Attach to the chair with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated.
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches at each end of the back to allow for the back legs. Attach to the seat frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.