A fabulous way to flank your sofa on the backside, or line your entryway, this console table provides that little something extra in style and function!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 2– 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 – piece of ¼” lauan or hardboard measuring 13-3/4” x 66-1/2”
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 1½” pocket hole screws
- 2½” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Hole saw or spade bit for power cord holes (optional)
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 16” – Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 21” – Side Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 63-1/2” – Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 22” – Top Supports
- 2 – 1×3 at 23” – Lower Supports
- 1 – 1×3 at 68” – Lower Support
- 4 – 2×2 at 3-1/4” – Feet
- 1 – 24” x 66-1/2” piece of ¾” plywood – Top
- 3 – 10” x 12” pieces of ¾” plywood – Cubby Supports
- 1 – 10” x 66-1/2” piece of ¾” plywood – Cubby Top
- 1 – 13-3/4” x 66-1/2” piece of ¼” lauan or plywood – Cubby Back
- 2 – 1×2 at 24” – Lower Trim Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 68” – Lower & Upper Trim Fronts
- 2 – 1×2 at 10-1/4” – Upper Trim Sides
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each of the apron pieces. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws making sure the face of the aprons are set back ¼” from the face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the aprons at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the leg supports. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the shorter supports to form a U shape. The shorter pieces will extend past the front of the legs by ¾” and past the sides of the legs by ¾”. The back should fit the same way with a ¾” “border” on the side and back. Attach to the legs with glue and a couple of brad nails in each leg.
Cut the pieces of 2×2 for the feet. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of the feet. Attach to the supports using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws so they go through the supports and into the legs. They will be lined up with the legs, in other words, the front feet will have a ¾” “border” on the front and sides, and the back legs will have a ¾” “border” on the sides and back.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach the top to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs, aprons, and supports. The top will overlap the aprons by ¼” but will be flush with the faces of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the cubby supports and top. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each 10” end of the supports. The cubby will be located ¼” in from the back edge to allow for the back piece. Attach the top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws, then attach to table in the same manner.
Cut the ¼” lauan or hardboard piece for the back. Attach to the back of the cubby with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The back will extend ¼” past the top of the cubby. Use a hole saw or spade bit to drill holes in the back for power cords, if desired.
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower side trim. The top of each side piece will be located ¼” above the cubby top and the table top. Attach to the sides of the cubby and the table top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the front trim. Make sure the tops of the pieces are flush with the side trim pieces. Attach to the front of the cubby and table in the same manner.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.