A custom build designed by Matt himself! This cabinet is totally customizable – Matt used the actual measurements of his media components to determine the size of his cabinet.
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Edge banding for the plywood edges
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 1 – 18” x 93-1/2” – Top
- 1 – 18” x 91-1/2” – Bottom
- 6 – 18” x 22-3/4” – Dividers
- 4 – 17” x 18” – Shelves
- 2 – 18” x 18” – Shelves
- 4 – 10” x 37-1/4” – Hutch Sides
- 8 – 9” x 10” – Hutch Shelves
- 1 – 10” x 80” – Hutch Top
- 1 – 24-1/4” x 91-1/2” (1/4” plywood) – Back
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Apply edge banding, if desired, after each piece has been cut.
Cut the pieces for the top, bottom, and dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the 18” ends of the dividers. Attach one divider to each side of the bottom with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach top in the same manner keeping in mind that each end of the top will overlap the sides by 1”. Check for square, then insert the remaining dividers at the spacing indicated in the drawing
Cut the pieces for the shelves and attach to the dividers with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the hutches. Attach the shelves to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Set the hutch assemblies on the top spaced 59” apart. Attach the hutch top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then secure the hutch assemblies to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.