A fabulous Buffet with clean lines and simple styling, this piece is sure to fit with most decor!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 5 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 3’
- Half sheet of ½” plywood
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 4×4 at 3’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 2” screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 2 sets of 18” drawer slides
- 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 1×3 at 15” – Side Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 29-1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 15” x 24-1/4” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 44-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 28-1/2” – Divider
- 4 – 1×2 at 21-7/8” – Top Supports
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-7/8” – Shelves
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 29-1/4” x 46” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 47” – Top
- 2 – 1×3 at 46” – Base Frame
- 3 – 1×3 at 17” – Base Frame
- 4 – 4×4 at 3-1/4” – Feet
- 4 – 1×4 at 20-7/8” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×4 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 20-7/8” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 21-5/8” – Drawer Fronts
- 4 – 1×3 at 16-5/8” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 21-3/4” – Door Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 16-3/4” – Door Panels
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.
Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the two shorter ends. Attach the sides with the bottom of the frames flush with the bottom face using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in one short end only and secure in the center of the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top support. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Secure to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of each shelf and secure with the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the side frames, shelves, bottom, and top supports.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with ½” overlap at the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports, divider, and side panels.
Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the three shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Attach the feet to the frame with countersunk 2” screws through the base frame into the feet.
Attach the base to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the frame into the bottom.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob.
Cut the pieces for the doors and assemble as shown, in the same manner as the sides. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then shim in place and attach the hinges to the cabinet.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.