We covered plans for the buffet here, and now the hutch! Isn’t it fabulous? Just think of all that amazing wine storage!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 6’
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
- Half sheet of ¼” plywood
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 24 – ¾” dowels at 3’
- 1 – Trim or Casing at 4’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 2” screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 2 pieces of glass or acrylic
- 2 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Router with rabbeting bit
- Silicone to adhere glass/acrylic to door frame
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 6 – 1×3 at 6” – Side & Divider Frames
- 6 – 1×3 at 43-1/4” – Side & Divider Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 6” x 38-1/4” – Side Panels
- 28 – 1×2 at 10-1/4” – Shelf Supports
- 2 – 1×4 at 21-7/8” – Lower Aprons
- 2 – 1×6 at 21-7/8” (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) – Upper Aprons
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 43-1/4” x 46” – Back
- 14 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 21-7/8” – Shelves
- 70 – ¾” dowels at 11” – Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 47” – Top
- 1 – Trim or Casing at 46” – Top Trim
- 4 – 1×3 at 17-1/2” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 38-1/2” – Door Frames
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frames and divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.
Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.
Cut the pieces for the supports. Attach with the spacing indicated in the drawing using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower aprons. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and dividers. Attach each dowel piece to the shelves with the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the dividers can be rounded off by thoroughly sanding them.
Secure the shelves to the supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. It would be easier to start with the bottom shelf first, then work your way up.
Cut the piece for the top and secure to the sides and aprons with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. The top will overlap by ½” on the sides and front.
Cut the piece for the trim. Attach to the front just under the top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the door frames and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using a router and a rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet approximately ¼” deep to hold the glass or acrylic. Run a bead of silicone in the rabbet to secure the glass or acrylic to the frame.
Wait to purchase the glass or acrylic until after the doors are completed. This way you can get an accurate measurement of the area because the rabbet width will depend on the router bit used.
Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach them to the cabinet.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.