Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Farmhouse Tallboy Dresser

03.16.12 By //
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Farmhouse Tallboy Dresser

The most fabulous storage piece and a special request submitted to the Project Request page!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$100 – $150
  • 1 – sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 4 – 2×2 at 6’
  • 8 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 7 – 1×6 at 8’
  • 4 – 2×2 at 54-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1×2 at 18-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2” – Side Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 48-3/4” – Side Panels
  • 14 – 1×2 at 34” – Support Frames
  • 8 – 1×2 at 18-1/2” – Support Frames
  • 2 – 1×2 at 7” – Vertical Supports
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 37” x 50-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18x 33-3/4” – Shelf
  • 8 – 1×6 at 15-5/8” – Upper Drawer Boxes
  • 6 – 1×6 at 33” – Lower Drawer Boxes
  • 14 – 1×6 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 38-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 15-5/8” x 20” – Upper Drawer Bottoms
  • 3 – ¼” plywood at 20” x 33” – Lower Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 16-3/8” – Upper Drawer Fronts
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 33-3/4” – Lower Drawer Fronts

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the pieces for the side frames, panels, and stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 frame pieces as well as the side panels. The 1×2 pieces will be located so that the 1-1/2” face is on the top/bottom. Assemble the frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach the panels in the same manner. The back of the panel should be flush with the back of the frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Attach to sides at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/2” screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” screws. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated in the drawings. It may be easier to start at the bottom and work your way up.

Cut the pieces for the vertical supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the center of the upper drawer compartments at the spacing indicated.

Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top and secure to the supports and side frames with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. The front and sides of the top will hang over by ¾”.

Cut the piece for the shelf. To make it slide easier, draw a pencil mark on the underside of the shelf where the supports are located. Push thumbtacks (the brass tacks work best) into the underside of the shelf along the pencil marks so that the tacks will slide along the supports when the shelf is pulled out.

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer  boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles and attach the hardware.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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