This is the perfect project to use the stain I’m always gushing about – Rust-Oleum’s Ultimate Wood Stain in Sunbleached! Such a simple build but rich on style…
- Tape Measure Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 4 – 2×2 at 8’
- 6 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1x material ripped to ¾” wide for the trim pieces or 3/4″ square dowels
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- Two sets of hinges
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 39-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 23-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 50-3/4” – Back
- 2 – 2×2 at 50-3/4” – Front pieces
- 1 – 2×2 at 20-1/4” – Front piece
- 9 – 1×2 at 16” – Shelf & Top Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” 50-3/4” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” x ¾” at 55-1/4” – Front trim
- 2 – ¾” x ¾” at 19” – Side trim
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 55-1/4” – Top
- 13 – 1×2 at 16” – Slats/Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 50-3/4” – Slat shelf
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 21” x 25-5/8” – Doors
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
If using edge banding on the plywood, apply it to each piece before assembly. Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the long edges of the side panels. Secure to the legs, with the front face flush with the face of the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Secure to the legs with the back face flush with the inside of the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the boards. Center the shorter piece as shown, and attach the frame to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports and top supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the cabinet as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. When attaching the center supports, they will be located horizontally with the lower support flush with the lower front piece. Attach the other piece at the spacing shown.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes all around (only on three sides of the upper shelf) and secure to the supports with the top of the shelves flush with the top of the supports and also to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. (The shelves will sit on the center supports.)
Drill pocket holes in each end of the top supports. (They should have been cut in Step 4). Attach to the cabinet as shown with the center support flush with the top of the front piece and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the trim. Secure the side trim first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports.
Cut the pieces for the slat shelf. Drill pocket holes in the end of each board. Assemble the frame and slats as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the cabinet legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the doors. The doors will overlap the opening by ½” on the top and sides, and by ¼” at the bottom. Attach the hinges to the doors first, then to the cabinet. Attach any door hardware as desired.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.