Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Inspired Low Rise Crib

04.09.12
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Inspired Low Rise Crib

In honor of the expansion of the TDC team, I thought crib plans were in order!  Adjustable to three different heights… side rail removes to make a toddler bed.

**This is, as far as I know, the very first plan of this kind EVER posted on the interwebs… so with that said, consider this a major disclaimer: this should not be your first project ever and you should be very comfortable with the concept of building before you tackle this. While I feel there is safety in building our own furniture for our most important little people, I also feel a bit trepidatious about setting you loose with this. So, go forth with caution and understand that you are liable for your own building, and treat that with care… now, on to the show!

$50-$75

  • 12 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 10 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2×4 at 3’
  • 4 – 2×4 at 3-1/4” – Legs
  • 6 – 1×3 at 30” – Base and End Frames
  • 8 – 1×3 at 29” – End and Side Frames
  • 34 – 1×2 at 29” – Frames
  • 6 – 1×3 at 53-1/2” – Side Frames and Mattress Support Frame
  • 2 – 1×3 at 26-3/4” – Mattress Support Frame
  • 2 – 2×2 at 52” – Mattress Slat Supports
  • 8 – 1×3 at 26-3/4” – Slats

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the pieces for the legs as indicated in the drawing. Cut the pieces for the base and attach to the legs with glue and countersunk 2” screws. Make sure the outside edge of the legs is flush with the outside edge of the base.

**NOTE: Please add one additional vertical frame piece to each end (essentially the bars). This has already been accounted for in the lumber list and the cut list. This will change the spacing, so just space them equally if you are building this before I can update the diagrams (this note will no longer be here if I have updated the diagrams).

Cut the pieces for the end frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each 29” board, and also in the long end of one of the bottom boards. Assemble the sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the sides to the base with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the outside face of the end is flush with the outside edge of the base.

Drill holes at the measurements indicated for the threaded inserts. Do not drill all the way through the boards.

**NOTE: Please add one additional vertical frame piece to each side (essentially the bars). This has already been accounted for in the lumber list and the cut list. This will change the spacing, so just space them equally if you are building this before I update the diagrams (this note will no longer be here if I have updated the diagrams).

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Drill pocket holes as shown (and in the long ends of the frame to attach it to the ends) and assemble in the same manner as the ends, except do not drill holes for the threaded inserts.

Attach the side frames to the end frames using glue (on one frame only!) and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the mattress frame.  Drill pocket holes in the ends of each of the shorter pieces and assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the mending straps to the shorter ends of the frame making sure to line them up with the holes drilled for the threaded inserts.

Cut the pieces for the mattress slat supports. Attach to the inside of the frame with glue and countersunk 2” screws.

Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the slat supports with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Attach the mattress frame at the desired height using the bolts through the holes on the mending straps inserted into the threaded inserts.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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