Easily customizable to cushions of your choice… Just adjust the length or depth dimensions! The dimensions given are based on seat cushions measuring 21” x 21” x 4”. Corner unit plans can be found here: Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Customizable Outdoor Corner Unit
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 3 – 2×4 at 8’
- 7 – 1×4 at 8’
- 3 – 2×4 at 19-1/2” with 15 deg. angle cut at bottom – Back Leg Top
- 6 – 2×4 at 13-1/4” – Back Leg Bottom & Front Legs
- 1 – 2×4 at 42” – Back Leg Connector
- 2 – 1×4 at 15-3/4” – Front Aprons
- 8 – 1×4 at 18-3/4” – Back Aprons, Back Slats, & Seat Back
- 3 – 1×4 at 19-3/8” – Side Aprons & Center Support
- 2 – 1×4 at 22-3/4” – Seat Supports
- 2 – 1×4 at 21” – Seat Sides
- 5 – 1×4 at 35” – Seat Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle for the back leg top at 15 degrees. If you have a miter saw, trim a little off of the top of the angle to allow for the seat (see drawing). Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top of the back leg, as well as at the angle. Attach to the bottom leg sections with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front and back aprons. Note that the front legs are placed with the widest part of the 2×4 facing out, thus making the aprons shorter (15-3/4”), where the back legs are placed with the narrower part of the 2×4 facing out (18-3/4” aprons). Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the front and back legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws with the aprons set back ¼” from the outer face of the legs.
Cut the piece for the back leg connector and attach with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side aprons, center support, and seat support. Drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. The side aprons will be placed ¼” back from the outer face of the legs and will be attached using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The center support will be centered on the center front and back legs and attached using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The seat supports will be centered on the front and back aprons, and attached using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the back frame at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat back. Attach to the back apron and seat support with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the seat sides and slats. Drill pocket holes in each end of the slats as well as one pocket hole in the side piece where it will meet the seat back piece. Assemble with the spacing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Apply glue to the top of the side aprons, and the front aprons and legs, then lay the seat assembly on top. Secure with 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat sides and slats into the aprons. Attach to the back seat piece with the single pocket hole drilled in the seat side.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.