Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Sorrento Console, perfect as a media center, a console table, sideboard or storage piece!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Router with 3/8” rabbeting bit
- Brad Nailer
- 6 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – Baseboard trim at 8’
- 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 – sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 4 – knobs for doors
- 4 sets of hinges
- Mirrors for doors
- Edge banding for plywood
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 72” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 34-1/4” – Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 16” – Bottom Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 72” – Trim Support
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 30” – Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 21” – Middle Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 24-3/4” – Outer Shelves
- 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 30-3/4” x 73-1/2” – Back
- 1 – 1×2 at 21” – Front Stretcher
- 4 – 1×2 at 21-3/4” – Door Frames
- 2 – 1×2 at 27” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 30” – Door Frames
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 75” – Top
- 8 – 1×2 at 7-5/8” – Doors
- 8 – 1×2 at 27-1/2” – Doors
- 2 – Baseboard trim at 16-3/4”
- 1 – Baseboard trim at 74-1/2”
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding should be applied to exposed plywood edges before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Also drill pocket holes in the top of the side pieces. Attach to the sides as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Drill pocket holes in one long end and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the trim support. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom and sides into the support. Add a few brad nails through the support into the bottom supports.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the outer shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end. The shelves will be located ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the middle shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end. These shelves are flush with the outside edge of the dividers. Attach to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the front stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The top overlaps the front and sides by ¾”. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the top of the sides and dividers into the top piece.
Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides and dividers into the frames. Add a few nails through the frames into the shelves.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. They will have to be located so they do not interfere with the router when cutting the rabbets. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Using the router and a rabbeting bit, cut a 3/8” rabbet around the inside of the frame for the mirrors. Use a hammer and chisel to square the corners of the rabbet. Attach the mirrors using adhesive or a framing tab gun.
Cut the pieces of baseboard. Secure the side pieces first using 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front.
Attach the doors with the hinges, and attach the knobs to the doors.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.