Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Belden End of Bed Dresser! The Perfect storage piece for all of those clothes or toys or….other stuff kiddos accumulate!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 2 – ¼” x 2’ x 4’ beadboard panels
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Full sheet of ½” plywood
- Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- 1 – ¼” x 1-1/4” trim at 8’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1/2” brad nails
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 4 – drawer pulls
- 2 sets of 12” drawer slides
- Edge banding for the plywood
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 22-1/4” – Legs
- 6 – 1×2 at 12-1/2” – Side Stretchers & Slide Supports
- 2 – ¾” Beadboard Assemblies at 12-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 37-1/2” – Lower Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 37-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” Beadboard assembly at 2-1/2” x 37” – Lower Front
- 2 – ¾” Beadboard assemblies at 3” x 37” – Center & Upper Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 41-1/2” – Top
- 2 – ½” plywood at 6-1/2” x 38” – Drawer Fronts
- 4 – ¼” x 1-1/4” at 38” – Drawer Front Trim
- 4 – ¼” x 1-1/4” at 4” – Drawer Front Trim
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 36-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 2 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 12” x 36-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the ½” plywood into four 2’ x 4’ pieces. Create the beadboard assemblies by gluing the ¼” beadboard panel to a 2’ x 4’ piece of ½” plywood. Clamp until dry and add a few ½” brad nails if necessary. Be sparing with the nails as the assembly will have to be cut with a table saw or circular saw for the side panels and front panels.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the lower stretcher piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes should face down.
Cut the beadboard panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Attach the slide supports as shown between the legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the pieces for the longer lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig back to ¾” material and attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Secure to the lower stretcher with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face should be flush with the back face of the legs.
Cut the beadboard pieces for the front. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face should be flush with the front face of the legs.
Cut the piece for the top. Apply edge banding to the plywood if desired and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, back, and front.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the bottom. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Apply edge banding if desired.
Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach to the front with glue and ½” brad nails. Drill the holes for the handles. Drive screws through the holes for the handles into the drawer boxes to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.