Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pet Organization Dresser, with a pull out drawer for the bowls and a lift up top to store the dog or cat food, this piece is sure to hide those untidy items and give them a bit of style!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- One full sheet of ¾” plywood
- One quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for the edges of the plywood, optional
- One set of 14” Drawer Slides
- 3 – Drawer Pulls
- One 24” Continuous Hinge
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 26-1/2” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” a 26-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” a 21” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 21” – Shelf
- 1 – ¾”plywood at 18-3/4” x 19-1/2” – Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 23-1/2” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-7/8” x 23-1/2” – Top
- 2 – 1×4 at 14” – Side Trim
- 1 – 1×4 at 24” – Front Trim
- 2 – ¾”plywood at 6-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 18-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Drawer Box
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/8” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding should be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each side of the panels. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each side. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the outside face of the legs.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Cut the notches as shown noting that the notches at one end will differ from the notches at the other end. Drill pocket holes in the sides and back of the bottom. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. (Pocket holes can also be drilled where the notches meet the legs.)
Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut the notches as shown. Drill pocket holes in the sides and back of the shelf. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. (Pocket holes can also be drilled where the notches meet the legs.)
Cut the piece for the front. Drill pocket holes in the sides. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face will be flush with the front faces of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the trim. Cut the arches with a jig saw. Attach the side pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner.
Cut the pieces for the top. Secure the smaller piece to the back of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The back of this piece will be flush with the back while the sides will overlap by ½”.
Position the larger piece with a 1/8” gap between pieces. Attach the continuous hinge according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Cut the holes for the containers in the center piece positioning them approximately 1” from the front edge. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown and position the center piece approximately ½” to ¾” down from the top of the sides. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Position the top two as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill the holes for the drawer hardware. Position the lower drawer front with a 1/8” gap at the bottom (so the front doesn’t rub on the trim) and attach to the drawer box. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the drawer hardware.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.