Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Whitney Project Table! I can think of a million projects I might do on this project table, and I think it would be the perfect workspace slash utilitarian space of some sort, especially since it has drawers! Yay for storage! Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 5 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- 2 sets of 28” drawer slides
- Drawer pulls
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
- 9 – 1×2 at 31-1/2” – Side Frames & Slide Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Side Panels
- 4 – 1×2 at 41-1/2” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Back Panel
- 1 – 1×2 at 42-1/4” – Lower Stretcher
- 1 – 1×2 at 5-3/4” – Front Dividers
- 2 – 2×2 at 5-3/4” – Front Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 38” x 60” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 27-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 27-1/4” –Drawer Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-7/8” –Drawer Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 18-5/8” – Drawer Front
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out (one set toward the top and one set toward the bottom). This is so they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled!
Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the lower stretcher as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the pocket holes so they are facing to the inside.
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out.
Attach the back assembly to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be positioned so the pocket holes are facing up while the lower stretcher is positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Attach the lower stretcher at the center of the lower side stretchers. The piece can be positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Attach to the front stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretchers into the dividers.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position them as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws into the front dividers and the back panel.
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the top before the top is secured. The sides will overlap by 1-3/4” at the front and back, and 7-3/4” at each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side panels, back panel, and front stretcher.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.