Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Offset Bench
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×8 at 8’
- One sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding for plywood
- One set of 14” drawer slides
- Drawer pull
- 4” foam
- Upholstery batting
- Upholstery fabric
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 2×2 at 13-1/4” – Left Legs (Shorter)
- 3 – 1×2 at 12”- Left & Right Frames, Right Slide Support
- 1 – 1×3 at 12” – Left Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Right Legs (Longer)
- 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 12” – Right Frame
- 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 46-3/4” – Upper Back Stretcher
- 1 – 1×2 at 46-3/4” – Lower Back Stretcher
- 1 – 1×3 at 46-3/4” – Front Apron
- 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 14-1/4” – Bench Divider
- 1 – 1×2 at 13-1/4” – Seat Support
- 2 – 1×3 at 13-1/2” – Seat Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 17-1/4” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 32-1/2” – Seat
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 13-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 13-1/4” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 14” – Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 14-3/4” – Drawer Front
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the left (shorter) side. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the right (taller) side. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the slide support. Attach to the right side frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back stretchers. Cut the notch in the upper stretcher as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces and position on the legs as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretcher. Cut the notch in the stretcher as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and position on the legs as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notch using a jigsaw or bandsaw, then drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the front and back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat supports. The 1×2 support will be positioned on the divider as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holescrews.
Position the 1×3 supports and secure in the same manner.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the divider, back, and right side frame.
Cut the piece for the seat. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports, back, front, and left side frame.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8″ on each side. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Create the box cushion for the seat. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.