Easy to follow, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jocelyn Console Table! I love this cute little gal and with that bit of storage, she is that much more functional! Love that! Xx… Rayan
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Countersink bit for drill
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
- 6 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×3 at 8’
- 1 scrap of 2×4 at 20”
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1” brad nails
- Edge banding for the plywood
- 2 – Cabinet pulls
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
- 4 – 2×3 at 20” – Side Frames
- 4 – 2×2 at 20” – Side Frames
- 7 – 2×2 at 46” – Back & Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46” – Back Panel
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 49” – Shelves
- 1 – 2×2 at 7” – Center Divider
- 1 – 2×4 at 20” – Center Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 50” – Top
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 22” – Drawer Front
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 20” – Drawer Sides (inside)
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Sides (outside)
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 22” – Drawer Backs
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Cut the notches in two of the 2×3 pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 2×3 pieces with the notches. Drill pocket hole in these pieces as shown. Position the pieces as shown orienting the pocket hole screws so they will be hidden (and not have to be filled). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back panel as shown. Secure two of the stretchers to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back face of the back panel is flush with the inside faces of the stretchers. Secure the panel assembly and remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches with a jigsaw. Secure the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the center divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center support drill pocket holes at each end. The pocket holes for the front edge will have to be close together as the piece will be secured to the 2×2 divider. Position the piece so that it is centered on the 2×2 and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Position the piece so that it overhangs by ½” on each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and stretchers.
The drawers are constructed differently than normal. There is a right drawer and a left drawer. The “outside” sides are taller than the “inside” sides. Construct one drawer as shown in the drawings, then reverse the sides for the other drawer.
Cut the pieces for the fronts and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Locate the bottom holes in the taller side pieces so that the back can be fastened to it. The “inside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front, making the bottom 1-1/2” up from the bottom of the front. The “outside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front making the bottom flush with the front. Make sure the pocket holes are facing in! Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. The bottom face will be flush with the bottom edge of the “inside” sides, making it positioned 1-1/2” up from the bottom on the “outside” sides. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Rub a coat of paste wax on the bottom edges of the drawers. This will help them slide much easier!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.