Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hudson Nightstand. By special reader request we are expanding upon this fabulous collection we started a long time ago in a far off land… At least it feels that way. It's lovely to bring it back full circle and round out our plans for the gorgesou Hudson Collection! Hope you like… Xx…Rayan
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Brad nailer
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 3 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – quarter sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 2 – ¼” thick x ¾” wide lattice strips at 8’
- 1 piece of ¾” cove moulding at 8’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- ½” brad nails
- 1” brad nails
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding, optional
- 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 4 drawer pulls
- 1 small pull
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 20” – Side Panels
- 2 – 2×2 at 21-1/2” – Back Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-1/2” – Back Panel
- 6 – 1×2 at 21-1/2” – Front Stretchers
- 2 – 1×2 at 16-1/4” – Surface Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26” – Top
- 1 – ½” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/4” – Flat Surface
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 19” – Drawer Box Bottom
- 8 – 1×3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 8 – 1×3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 4 – ½” plywood at 4-3/8” x 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Base
- 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Trim
- 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 2-7/8” – Drawer Front Trim
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back frame and the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the first one as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the surface supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the vertical stretcher and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The piece will overhang the sides and the front by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the surface. After finishing, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom so it will slide smoothly. Insert into the opening.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs, then make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the trim then attach using glue and 1” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer front bases and the trim. Position the trim on the bases as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.
Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front in the opening) then drive screws through the holes for the pulls into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer then secure the front with countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Make any necessary adjustments then finish drilling the holes for the pulls.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.