Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a La Jolla Sideboard! This project was a reader suggestion, but little did they know we actually had this on our radar already and so of course jumped at the chance to move it to the front of the line! Afterall, we love a good reader project request! Don’t forget you too can request projects in the project request section of our forum! Not to mention you can ask questions or share your latest projects and ideas! We love to know what you are up to and what you are all about! Yahoo! Xx…Rayan
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Brad nailer
- 1 – 2×4 at 4’
- 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1 sheet of ½” plywood
- 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- ½” brad nails
- 1” brad nails
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding, optional
- 6 sets of European concealed hinges
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 33-3/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 79-1/2” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 33” x 79-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 33” – Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 81” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 26” – Shelves
- 8 – 2×4 at 5” – Feet
- 6 – ½” plywood at 13-3/16” x 32-3/4” – Door Base
- Strips of ¼” plywood at 2-1/2” wide – Herringbone Pattern
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 12-13/16” x 32-3/4” – Doors
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece, as well as the top end of the side pieces. Secure the Bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends, as well as one long edge. Position in the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Position on the cabinet with the front overlapping by ¾” then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position inside the cabinet locating the shelves ¾” back from the front edge, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the feet. The front feet will extend past the front edge of the bottom ¾” while the back feet will be flush with the back edge of the cabinet. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the base pieces for the doors from the ½” plywood and from the ¾” plywood. Secure the ½” plywood to the ¾” plywood with one long edge and both short edges flush (the ½” plywood will overhang one end by 3/8”) using glue and 1” brad nails.
Cut 2-1/2” wide strips from the ¼” plywood. Position the first strip at the upper inside corner of the door base setting it at a 45 degree angle. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. If the strips are cut a little longer than the door, they can be cut flush to the base using a router and a straight flush-cutting router bit. Repeat for all of the door fronts noting that there will be three right doors, and three left doors.
Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. The ¾” portion of the door base will fit inside the opening with a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. The 3/8” portion with the herringbone pattern will sit on top of the sides and dividers, overlapping by 1/4”. After installing the hinges, make any necessary adjustments.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.