Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Anderson Dresser. I love any plan that has the potential to be a 2 toned finish and I love a good small dresser as a nightstand. A great way to add that extra bit of height to a piece next to the bed and double up on functionality while you are at it. A slightly higher nightstand feels luxurious somehow and makes your sleeping space feel more grand. Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Brad nailer
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- Edge banding, optional
- 3 sets of 14” drawer slides
- 3 drawer pulls, optional
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 34-3/4” – Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 15” – Side Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 28-1/2” – Side Panels
- 6 – 1×2 at 33” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 28-1/2” x 33” – Back Panel
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 33” – Upper Wider Stretcher
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 33” – Lower Wider Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 36” – Top
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 30-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – 1×6 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – 1×6 at 32” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 32-3/4” –Drawer Fronts
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower 1×2 will be positioned on end. Secure the entire side assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower 1×2 will be positioned on end. Secure the back assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the 1×2 stretchers. The upper stretcher will be positioned so that the outside face is flush with the outside face of the legs. The center stretchers will be located ¾” back from the outside face of the legs. The lower stretcher will be positioned on end and located ¾” back from the outside face of the legs. Secure the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the wider stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. The top of the upper stretcher will be flush with the top of the 1×2. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then fasten the top edge of the wider stretcher to the 1×2 stretcher using 1-1/4” brad nails.
The center wider stretchers will be positioned directly below the center 1×2 stretchers. Secure with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then insert a few brad nails through the top of the 1×2 stretchers into the top of the wider stretchers.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.