A bookshelf that has a few drawers is a good looking bookshelf indeed. Not to mention it helps you store and hide those things that are cluttery and not so pretty to display, yahoo! If you want to browse through some of our other plans for bookshelves, we have tons and tons! Xx… Rayan
- 1 – 1×10 at 6’
- 1 – 1×10 at 8’
- 4 – 2×3 at 8’ (or 4 – 2×4 ripped down to 2-1/2” wide)
- 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1 – 4’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 4’ x 8’ sheet of ¾” plywood
- 4 – 2×3 at 43-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 39-1/4” – Side Panels
- 4 – 2×3 at 44” – Front Stretchers
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 44” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 38-1/2” x 44” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 48” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 41-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
- 2 – 1×10 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 1×10 at 43” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43-3/4” – Drawer Front Base
- 4 – ¼” plywood at 5-7/16” x 21-13/16” – False Drawer Fronts
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along the long edges of each panel. Secure the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position on the front as shown securing with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along all four edges of each panel. Secure the shelves to the front stretcher and cabinet sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes along the 38-1/2” edges. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the shelves to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that the front and sides overhang by ½” secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them 1” back from the front edge of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Position the ¼” false drawer fronts on the ¾” base so they are flush with the edges with a 1/8” gap between them. Secure in place with glue and ½” brad nails. Clamps may also be used to hold them in place until the glue dries. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
/ Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
/ This post may contain affiliate links.