I have been working on this table off and on for a couple of weeks now and I am so excited to finally have it built and finished. You might remember my complaint that none of my furniture fits my current home’s spaces and my kitchen tablewas no exception, only it was far too small rather than too large like most of my other pieces. Since we spend quite a bit of time in this space I decided to tackle it first. I planned to build this a tad differently originally, but after some sort of revelation recently, I decided it would be even more satisfying to build what I envision using materials and supplies I already have. So… what you see before you is actually constructed entirely of 2×4’s including the table top. And these are not your beautiful select lumber 2×4 studs, but your down and dirty, horrible quality, utterly cheap studs with knots and cracks galore. So, with a little elbow grease and a lot of sanding, she is now absolutely gorgeous. Just goes to show you don’t need to purchase expensive materials or have super expensive specialty tools to get the job done.
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- 17 – 2×4 at 8′ – you can also choose to use a solid piece for the top or larger boards.
- 12 – 2×4 at 6′ – Table Top
** For all beveled cuts, measurements below are for the longest side after you bevel.
- 4 – 2×4 at 30 9/16″ – Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 29 1/8″ Legs
- 2 – 2×4 at 8 1/8″ Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 9 3/8″ – Supports
- 5 – 2×4 at 29″ Frame
- 2 – 2×4 at 55″ Frame
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your Table Top. You can use one solid board, sheet goods, or larger boards for this if you choose, but in the essence of frugality, we are going with 2×4’s here. You will join your boards with pocket hole joinery. Use your Jig to create your pocket holes for 1 1/2″ thick material and stagger their placement. Secure with glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Clamp together and allow your glue to setup before you move on with this piece.
Build the Leg Units. You will need 2 of these exactly the same. Each and every cut is a bevel cut at 21.3°. Pay close attention to which direction the image shows the bevel. If your saw doesn’t have beveling capabilities, I suppose you could turn your board on it’s side and miter it. It would work out the same way I think.
Attach the Leg Units to the Table Top. Once your table top boards have finished drying and are completely secured, you can attach your leg units as shown in this diagram. Use your 2 1/2″ wood screws and glue, then attach through the small board on your leg unit.
Cut and Attach the Supports. Since we are using 2×4’s joined for the table top, the support for the legs and top have special needs, so to speak. Bevel the supports at 21.3° and attach to the leg units with glue and to the table top with glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws.
Build out the Frame. The remaining pieces are all straight cuts and easy to finish out. The 2 pieces on either side of each leg unit should sit up close and personal to the leg units. These are here to help keep the legs from moving in either direction. Attach all the frame pieces using 2 1/2″ screws and glue.
Finish your Table Top. Caulk or fill in between each board, allow to dry and sand flush. I used caulking on mine since it gives more and tends to be more flexible, which is important when you are dealing with several boards joined together. You need to be careful when you apply it so that you wipe it from any surfaces where it isn’t needed. I used a belt sander to sand flush since my boards were warped and crazy and it’s just stunning!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School