Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Kiko Buffet

05.05.14 By //
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Kiko Buffet via @thedesconf

A fun DIY Furniture build for a stylish buffet or sideboard that can easily double as a media cabinet or console table depending on where you need it and how you style it! If you are in the market for a DIY furniture plans for an easy to build buffet or a budget friendly console table of a different style, be sure to check out our plan index, it is loaded to the brim with great stuff! Xx.. Rayan

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Kiko Buffet via @thedesconf
  • 1 – 1×2 at 2’
  • 2 – 1×6 at 6’
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8’ (it may be more economical to rip 2 – 2x4s in half)
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 4 – 2×2 at 18” – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 14” – Base Sides
  • 2 – 2×2 at 43” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 54” – Shelf Frame
  • 2 – 2×2 at 11” – Shelf Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43” – Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 70” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 17” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 68-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Dividers
  • 1 – 1×2 at 23” – Drawer Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1×6 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×6 at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/8” x 22-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22-5/8” – Doors

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Attach the sides and stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the shelf frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood shelf piece. Secure inside the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the frame.

Position the frame on the legs as shown. Secure in place using glue and 3” countersunk screws.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the base as shown – the sides will overhang by 12” while the front and back will be flush. Secure to the base using glue and countersunk 1-1/2” screws.

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back edge. Treat the pieces as a left and a right – this way, the pocket holes will be hidden by the drawers and won’t have to be filled. Secure to the bottom and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer stretcher and drill pocket hole screws in each end. Secure to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back, sides, and dividers into the underside of the top.

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

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