By special reader request, this beauty was a gem to find in our plan request queue! I adore a gorgeous desk plan especially one of this variety of design! I hope you all like it too!
We have quite a few other free desk plans for your woodworking enjoyment, but in particular I’m currently crushing on the stacked wood timber slat desk, the campaign desk, and the bromley secretaire desk!
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw
- Multi-Square and Carpenter’s Square
- Kreg Jig – if you build frequently, invest in this one.
- Nail Gun – optional
- Router with Patterning bit – or bit set – optional1/2” Spade Bit from Spade Bit Set
- 2 – 2×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ½” plywood at 4’ x 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood at 2’ x 4’
- 1/2” dowel at 2’
- 2” Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4″ Brad Nails
- 1″ Wood Screws
- 1/2″ Spade Bit from Spade Bit Set
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Safety Gear
- Edge Banding – optional
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×3 at 27-3/4” (may need to rip 2x4s down to 2-1/2”) – Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 39” – Front and Back Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 17” – Side Aprons
- 2 – 1×2 at 17” – Side Stretchers
- 1 – 1×2 at 41” – Middle Stretcher
- 2 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 43-1/2” – Long Top Frame Pieces
- 3 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 14-1/2” – Short Top Frame Pieces
- 1 – 3/4” plywood at 44” x 20” – Table Top
- 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14” x 20” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
- 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20” – Cabinet Sides
- 2 – 1×2 at 17” – Drawer Guides
- 1 – 1×2 at 14” – Drawer Divider
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14” – Cabinet Back
- 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 3” – Top Drawer Sides
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Top Drawer Bottom
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Top Drawer Back
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4” x 13-1/2” – Top Drawer Front
- 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 8” – Bottom Drawer Sides
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Bottom Drawer Bottom
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 7-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Back
- 1 – 1/2” plywood at 8-3/4” x 13-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Front
- 2 – 1/2” dowels at 5” – Top Dowels
- 4 – 1/2” dowels at 3” – Side Dowels
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. All four Legs will be cut at an angle on the inside, but two of the legs will need holes drilled in them. Use a 1/2” spade bit to drill holes on the narrow side of the wood in two Legs. It is easier to drill these holes before cutting the wood at an angle, since a flat surface is easier to work with when drilling. Drill the holes approximately 2” deep.
Next, draw out the measurements on all four Legs and cut as shown. The tapered leg will start at 2-1/2” from the top of the Legs.
Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Front and Back Aprons Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Only attach one “drilled” leg on both the Front and the Back Apron. Make sure that the holes face the inside of the project, since 1/2” dowels will be inserted in them at a later step.
Cut the pieces for the Side Aprons, and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the Side Stretchers and Middle Stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the Side Stretchers to the Legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Attach the Middle Stretcher to the Side Stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the Long Top Frame and Short Top Frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Short Top Frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. Next, drill two 1/2” holes all the way through the wood as shown. These holes will receive 1/2” dowels in a later step.
Arrange Top Frame as shown with a 1/4” reveal on each edge. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the Table Top and secure using glue and 1” screws (screwed from the bottom). The Table Top will extend 1/4” past the Top Frame, and will be flush with the Legs and Aprons.
Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides. In only one of the Cabinet Sides, drill 1/2” holes approximately 1/4” deep, in each corner as shown.
Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Top and Bottom. Drill 1/2” holes in the Cabinet Top as shown at a 1/4” depth.
Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the Top and Bottom Sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.
Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails (nail from the outside of the Sides). If you want to nail the Drawer Guide from the inside, do so before assembling Cabinet Box (space is limited inside the box), or simply glue and clamp until dry.
Cut the piece for the Drawer Divider. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the Cabinet Back. Drill pocket holes in all sides of the Cabinet Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.
Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Top Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Top Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.
Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Top Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.
Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Front will extend 1/4” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will extend 3/4” beyond the bottom of the drawer.
Cut the pieces for the Bottom Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Bottom Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Bottom Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.
Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Bottom Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.
Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Front will extend 1” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will be 1/4” above the bottom of the drawer.
Now on to the really fun part! Put a nice dab of glue in each drilled hole. The 5” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Table Frame and the 3” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Legs. The Cabinet itself should be flush with the front and back of the Desk. The Cabinet side should be 3-1/2” in from the side of the Desk. TIP: Paint the dowels a metallic color before gluing and inserting into the holes.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School