Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Kid’s Double Chaise with Awning

07.29.15 By //
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Kids Double Chaise with Awning via @thedesconf

Is it hot enough out there for you? Treat the kiddos to some stylish shade provided by this Kid’s Double Chaise with matching awning! Yahoo, how adorable is this beauty?

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Kid's Double Chaise + Awning via @thedesconf
$75-$125
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Kid's Double Chaise + Awning via @thedesconf
  • 3 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 18 – 1×4 at 8’
  • ​2 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 4 – 1×4 at 12” – Legs
  • 2 – 1×4 at 59-3/4” – Chaise Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 45-3/4” – Chaise Ends
  • 1 – 1×4 at 45-3/4” – Frame End
  • 2 – 1×4 at 34” – Frame Centers
  • 16 – 1×4 at 47-1/4” – Slats
  • 6 – 1×2 at 2-1/2” – Back Rest Stops
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2” – Back Rest Stop
  • 1 – 1×2 at 44-1/4” – Head Support
  • 1 – 1×2 at 43-3/4” – Back Rest Frame End
  • 4 – 1×2 at 20” – Back Rest Frame Centers
  • 6 – 2×2 at 15” – Back Rest Sides
  • 3 – 2×2 at 13” – Back Rest End
  • 1 – 2×2 at 45-1/4” – Long Back Rest End
  • 4 – 1×4 at 48” – Awning Posts
  • 2 – 1×4 at 50-3/4” – Awning Ends
  • 2 – 1×4 at 33-1/2” – Awning Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 32” – Awning Sides
  • 3 – 1×4 at 52-1/4” – Awning Slats

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the pieces for the Legs, Chaise Ends, Chaise Sides, Frame End, and Frame Centers. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Chaise Ends, Frame End, and Frame Centers. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Attach the Legs to the Chaise Sides with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower Slats. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

Cut the pieces for the Back Rest Supports. Position the Supports as shown and attach with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws or Brad Nails. The Back Rest Support will be 1/2” from the bottom of the Chaise Side.

Cut the Head Support. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Head Support. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. The Head Support will be 1/2” from the bottom of the Chaise End.

Cut the pieces for Back Rest Frame End and Back Rest Frame Centers. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in one end of the Back Rest Frame Centers. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws.

Cut the pieces for the Slats. Position the Slats as shown, 1/4” apart. Attach the Slats to the Back Rest Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

Place the Slat/Back Rest assembly on the Chaise as shown. Position so that there is a consistent 1/4” gap between the lower group of Slats and the upper group of Slats. Position the small hinges as shown and install per the manufacturer’s recommendations. After installation, fold the Back Rest over so that it lays flat on the lower end of the Chaise.

Cut the Back Rest Sides and Ends. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Back Rest Sides and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws. Lastly, position the small hinges as shown and install per the manufacturer’s recommendations.

To position the Back Rest, fold out the Back Rest Side/Ends assembly and place the Long Back Rest End in one of spaces between the Back Rest Supports.

Cut the pieces for the Awning Ends, Awning Sides, and Posts. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Awning Ends. Assemble the Awning Ends to the top Awning Sides with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Attach the Posts to the top Awning Sides and to the bottom Awning Sides with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

Cut the pieces for the Awning Slats. Attach the Awning Slats to the Awning Ends and Awning Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

Cut the piece for the Cloth Awning. Turn under each side of the Cloth Awning 1/2”, iron, turn over another 1/2”, and iron again. To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges. For the Awning Windows, cut out the window as shown and sew a zigzag stitch or apply fabric glue to prevent the fabric from unraveling. Secure the Cloth Awning to the Awning Frame with sticky back Velcro.

Want to do more with this project? Attach clear vinyl on the window cutouts or attach wheels to the bottom of the Awning Posts!

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

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