The Design Confidential | DIY + Design: Your Field Guide to a Well Designed Do It Yourself Lifestyle

Cher and Rayan Want to Know What You Are Doing

Submitted by Jake /

If you are absent from building and commenting for more than a couple of weeks Rayan and Cher start asking what you are doing. Kind of nice to be missed. So I am posting some pics of things I have been doing over the past few weeks:

1. A hummingbird garden divided into two parts for each local grandkid, Jonathan and Noah. Planted a firebush and firecracker plant in each garden with sunflowers between them. Next year they will be screaming with color. Added three hummingbird feeders and one platform feeder for the lazy birds and squirrels.

2. Two jigs for the bandsaw and maybe someday a tablesaw. Wish I could remember where I got the plans.

3. A new gate latch that is massive enough for a barn door. I was tired of the "gravity" types not latching. In this South Texas wind the latch has to work or your gate will become splinters very quickly.

4. Protection for my tomato, cucumber, and watermelon plants from the birds and squirrels. I am losing the battle.

5. Organizing my garden tool shed. New hangers for the big tools. An adjustable shelf case for the other stuff. And a new door made from fencing and pine using dowels and PH screws.

Maybe Cher and Rayan could add a section for posting projects like these.

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Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Wooden Truss Dining Bench

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

We covered the plans to build the table here and now the benches! Yahoo... Materials listed are to build two benches, even better, right? Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

2 – 1x2 at 4’
2 – 2x2 at 6’
1 – 2x3 at 4’
2 – 2x4 at 8’
6 – 2x6 at 8’

Materials

2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
2-1/2” screws
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

8 – 2x6 at 16-7/16” – Legs
4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Side Stretchers
4 – 2x3 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Seat Ends
6 – 2x6 at 68” – Seat Planks
4 – 2x2 at 33-7/8” – Truss
2 – 1x2 at 36-3/4” – Stretcher

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2x3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2x4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the seat as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Center on the trusses and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Builders Showcase: Vickys Play Teepee

Submitted by vic b / Made at ThisPlace

Our son kept building forts around the sofa with blankets, he was having lots of fun but I thought he needed something more permanent. The restoration hardware and the land of nod teepee's are just gorgeous. I made this one with canvas painters drop cloth from the hardware store using The design Confidentials teepee plans, but added windows like the restoration hardware ones and stamped on letters.

Built From These Plans:

Free DIY Plans for a How To Make a No-Sew Land of Nod Inspired Play Tee Pee

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post:

Restoration Hardware Recycled Canvas Play Tent

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Wooden Truss Dining Table

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and How to Build a Wooden Truss Dining Table! This gal is gorgeous and might just lend her design to a table I will be building... we shall see! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

1 – 2x2 at 8’
1 – 2x3 at 6’
2 – 2x4 at 8’
8 – 2x6 at 8’

Materials

2-1/2” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” screws
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x6 at 28-3/4” – Legs
2 – 2x4 at 38-1/2” – Side Stretchers
2 – 2x3 at 32-1/2” – Side Stretchers
2 – 2x4 at 38-1/2” – Seat Ends
7 – 2x6 at 86” – Seat Planks
2 – 2x2 at 47-1/8” – Truss

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2x3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2x4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the top as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jocelyn Console Table

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

Easy to follow, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jocelyn Console Table! I love this cute little gal and with that bit of storage, she is that much more functional! Love that! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink bit for drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

6 – 2x2 at 8’
1 – 2x3 at 8’
1 scrap of 2x4 at 20”
2 sheets of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
1” brad nails
Edge banding for the plywood
2 – Cabinet pulls
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
4 – 2x3 at 20” – Side Frames
4 – 2x2 at 20” – Side Frames
7 – 2x2 at 46” – Back & Front Stretchers
1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46” – Back Panel
2 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 49” – Shelves
1 – 2x2 at 7” – Center Divider
1 – 2x4 at 20” – Center Support
1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 50” – Top
2 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 22” – Drawer Front
2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 20” – Drawer Sides (inside)
2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Sides (outside)
2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 22” – Drawer Backs

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Cut the notches in two of the 2x3 pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 2x3 pieces with the notches. Drill pocket hole in these pieces as shown. Position the pieces as shown orienting the pocket hole screws so they will be hidden (and not have to be filled). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back panel as shown. Secure two of the stretchers to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back face of the back panel is flush with the inside faces of the stretchers. Secure the panel assembly and remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches with a jigsaw. Secure the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the center divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center support drill pocket holes at each end. The pocket holes for the front edge will have to be close together as the piece will be secured to the 2x2 divider. Position the piece so that it is centered on the 2x2 and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Position the piece so that it overhangs by ½” on each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and stretchers.

Step 7

The drawers are constructed differently than normal. There is a right drawer and a left drawer. The “outside” sides are taller than the “inside” sides. Construct one drawer as shown in the drawings, then reverse the sides for the other drawer.

Cut the pieces for the fronts and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Locate the bottom holes in the taller side pieces so that the back can be fastened to it. The “inside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front, making the bottom 1-1/2” up from the bottom of the front. The “outside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front making the bottom flush with the front. Make sure the pocket holes are facing in! Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. The bottom face will be flush with the bottom edge of the “inside” sides, making it positioned 1-1/2” up from the bottom on the “outside” sides. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Rub a coat of paste wax on the bottom edges of the drawers. This will help them slide much easier!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments