Oct
20
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this media console is so very handsome and wants to live in your home... So go forth and build this beautiful baby and make your home that much more stylish! 

The Deets

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 3/4” plywood at – 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-1/4” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/4”x56” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 4 – 2x4 at 6” – Legs
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x56” – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x18” – Center Divider
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x37-1/4” – Left Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x18” – Right Shelf
  • 6 – 1x2 at 16” – Door Tops and Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x2 at 18” – Door Sides
  • 27 – 1x2 at 15” – Door Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Sides, Top, and Bottom. Apply edge banding to front edges of all pieces, if desired. Set the Kreg Jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom pieces. Make sure the pocket holes will face the inside of the Console. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Legs. You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Console Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.

Attach Legs to the bottom of the Console as shown with glue and 1-3/4” wood screws. The Legs should be placed 3/4” from the Sides of the Console and flush with the front edge of the Console. Insert the wood screws down through the Console Bottom into the Legs so that the screws are hidden. Also, make sure that the screws are countersunk so that they do not interfere with items placed inside the Console.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the Back. Drill pocket holes in each edge of the Back. Attach the Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Console.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the Center Divider. Drill pocket holes in the top andbottom of the Divider. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocketscrews.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Shelves. Drill pocket holes in the ends of theshelves and assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.There will be an approximate 1/2” space in the back between the shelvesand the Console Back.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Door Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Drill pocket holesin the ends of the Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Attach as shown with glueand 1-1/4” pocket screws. There will be a 1/4” gap between each Slat.Repeat this for all three Doors. Remember to keep checking for “square”on each door – each door should measure the same diagonally in bothdirections.

Step 7

Attach hinges as shown at the top and bottom of the Doors and attach tothe Console. There will be a 1/4” space between each installed Door.Add Door hardware such as a pull or knob if desired. 

Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Oct
14
2014
DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

Tis the season, as they say, and with this easy project you will add just the right amount of haunt to your Halloween decor, in a snap. To create your own Ram's Horn Display Shelf, only a few items and a few minutes of your time are needed. This project is seriously that easy... if you love the look of taxidermy or horns, then this could easily be a project you create any time of year, it really isn't specific to Halloween!

Spooky Display for The Design Confidential DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

MATERIALS // Shelf

/ 1x6 at 6 feet. I used a dog eared cedar fence board like this because they are really inexpensive!

/ 2 - 1 1/2" Right Angle Brackets

1 1/4" Screws and Wall Anchors for Drywall

#6 3/8" Screws if using a fence board and #6 1/2" Screws if using a regular 1x6 board.

Gold Ram's Horns

Sandpaper

Finishing Supplies if you plan to paint or stain your shelf. I left mine natural.

INSTRUCTIONS //

/ Cut your board down to size. Something around or under 3 feet in length is best. Sand according to your intended finish. If you plan to leave natural, sand rough edges and you will obviously need to sand quite a bit more if you plan to stain or paint your shelf. Attach your right angle brackets approximately 4 to 6 inches in from the outside edges of your board (the longer your board, the further in you will place your brackets). The hardware will attach to the bottom your board and hang downward. Mark your holes on the wall where you plan to fasten your shelf (since you attached the brackets to the board already, this will be a snap) and then put your wall anchors in place according to the instructions on the package. Set the screw holes on your bracket hardware over the top of your wall anchors (which should be fairly flush to the wall once in place) and using the screws provided with your anchors, fasten your shelf in place.

/ You are going to place a 2 1/2" drywall screw just to the outside of each of your brackets and fairly close to the bottom of your board. You will not screw this in very far. It should protrude from your wall about 2 1/4" give or take.

/ Cut your horns apart (they likely have a clear cord that would sit around your head if you were using these properly - but we are not - so cut the cord my friends, or at least unsecure it. Holding your horns at the approximate location of your long screws, determine the angle you want them to sit and make a light mark on the top in this place to note the direction for our next step. Using an extra screw, create a small hole in the flat part of the horn that is fairly near the top edge, just below where you made your mark. You are going to use this hole to help you slide the horn over the top of your screw. It will rest on the screw and sit under your board, appearing as though it is the bracket for your shelf. ** You can use a bit of mounting tape or duck tape to stick your horn in place over your brackets so they will hide the hardware and also so they are not loose. You want them to sit nice and tight, right up against your board. 

That is it, you are finished! Place something light weight to display on your shelf!

Antler Display for The Design Confidential DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

To mount my antler inside the frame, I simply used removable mounting putty on each point where it touches the wall. This baby is pretty secure over here, but if you expect small children to be in the vicinity (especially below a sharp pointy antler), perhaps you should secure using nylon finishing line and wrap around the hardware used to hang your frame.

DECOR SOURCES // Halloween Cat / Halloween Crow / Golden Horns

VINTAGE + OTHER ITEMS // Frame is Vintage / Table - Zinc Garden Table from Crate & Barrel - Similar Table Here and Exact Table For Sale By Owner Here / Stacking Candelabra - PotteryBarn - Similar Found Here and Here / Antlers found on eBay - Similar Here and Here / Gold + White Antler Wall Sculpture - Target Threshold Brand - this would work beautifully as well.

Sep
11
2014
Real Reader Build at The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand

I found plans online to build the A Frame Plant stand from The Design Confidential. I showed Hasani my ideas and he was on board! On Friday night we stopped in Lowes and picked our supplies.

Finished Plant Stand for Real Reader Build at The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 
Lumber Used 

We decided to use Select Pine for the project which was a lot nicer and a little more than using the regular pine.

Finishing Technique 

For this project I used the new stains from Rustoleum in Weathered Grey.

Additional Project Details 
Top Rung Close Up for Real Reader Build at The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand
Note
Aug
25
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Project Details

Oh this piece of DIY Furniture might be one of my absolute faves! So utterly versatile and just the coolest... lay it flat to enjoy on your front side or snooze and when you feel like it, simply put it in one of several incline positions to lounge and chat! Isn't that amazing? Check out the images at the bottom to see how this gal moves and functions! Xx... Rayan

Of course if you prefer a more tradition lounging option our Free DIY Plans to Build a Chesapeake Single Chaise Lounge is a fabulous alternative and let's not forget the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Chesapeake Double Chaise Lounger for those of you who prefer to snuggle up with another person while you bake or lounge in the sun! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 75”– Main Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 29-1/2”– Main Frame Top and Bottom
  • 5 – 1x3 at 31” – Main Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 19”– Middle Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 26”– Middle Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 2-1/2”– Middle Frame Spacers
  • 4 – 1x3 at 27-1/2”– Middle Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 30-1/4”– Upper Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 27-1/2”– Upper Frame Top
  • 5 – 1x3 at 29” – Upper Frame Slats 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the two Main Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole 29” from one end of the Side and 1-3/4” from the top. Please note that all hole measurements will be TO the center of the hole. Drill another 1/2” hole 3” from the other end of the Side. Drill a series of 4 more holes in the same manner as shown, 3” on center and 1-3/4” from the top. You can drill more than 5 holes if you wish – this will give you even more adjustment opportunities! You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. If you feel confident, clamp the Main Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Outside Frame Hole Placement for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 2

Cut out the Main Frame Top and Bottom and attach to the Main Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Outside Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 3

Cut out the Main Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Main Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 4

Next, cut out the Middle Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from each end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Middle Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Mid Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 5

Cut and attach the Middle Frame Top and Bottom to the Middle Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Middle Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 6

Next, cut the Middle Frame Spacers. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from the end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Spacer. Or you can clamp the Spacers together and drill both holes at once through the pieces. Align Spacers with the Sides so that the drilled holes match up and the edges are flush. Attach Spacers to the Middle Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Mid Frame Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 7

Cut out the Middle Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Mid Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 8

On to the last portion of the Futon! Cut the pieces for the Upper Frame Sides. Drill two 1/2” holes – one positioned 1-3/4” from one end, and the other 1-1/4” from the other end, both 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Sides together and drill both holes at once through both pieces.

Upper Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 9

Next, cut the Upper Frame Top and secure to the Upper Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Upper Frame Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 10

Cut out the Upper Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Upper Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 11

This is where the piece really starts to take shape! Lay out the Main Frame on a flat surface. Place the Middle Frame and Upper Frame within the Main Frame as shown. Attach the Upper Frame to the Middle Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Attach the Middle Frame to the Main Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 3” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Use the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips to secure the Upper Frame to the Main Frame in the desired adjustment holes. Add a cushion for extra comfort! After finishing, you might find it helpful to apply a coat of paste wax to the areas of the Futon that pivot and rub against each other. Large washers may also be used for extra reinforcement at the end of the clevis pins. Lastly, use a sander on edges if you want a more rounded, softer appearance. 

Clevis Pin Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 12

Check out how versatile this piece is! It can lay flat or incline to several positions. We’ve included a few more graphics for you to see this Futon in motion.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
18
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Project Details

I think a Side Table with storage is a perfectly versatile and adaptable piece of furniture. You might use this gorgeous gal as a nightstand, or next to your sofa, and perhaps to create a fabulous design moment on an otherwise empty wall. Mix it up and try this cute friend in a space you might not typically put a side table. You just might love it... Xx... Rayan 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 - 3/4” sheet of plywood at 4’ x 8’  
  • 1 - 3/4” sheet of plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 20” – Table Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 20” x 19” – Table Sides  
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Table Back
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 6” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Table Top
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-3/4” x 22” – Finished Table Top
  • 4 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” x 11-1/4” – Table Legs      
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12” – Front and Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-3/4” x 16-1/2” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 3-1/2” – Top Drawer Frontsand Backs
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 4-3/4” – Top Drawer FinishedFront  
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2” x 4-3/4” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 5-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Fronts and Backs
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 6-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Finished Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the Table Bottom and Sides and attach as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Cabinet Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 2

Cut out the Table Back and attach as shown to the Table Sides and Bottom with glue and pocket screws. When the Back is in place, it will leave a 3/4” space at the top for the Table Top.

Side Table Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 3

Cut out the Drawer Dividers and attach as shown on the front edge of the Table Sides with glue and pocket screws. There will be a 4-3/4” space above the Top Drawer Divider and a 6” space above and below the Bottom Drawer Divider.

Side Table Drawer Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 4

Cut and attach the Table Top to the Table Sides and Table Back with glue and pocket screws. The back of the Table Top will rest on top of the Table Back.

Side Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 5

Cut and attach the Finished Table Top to the Table Top as shown with glue and pocket screws. The front of the Finished Table Top will have a 3/4” overhang. 

Finished Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 6

Time to cut out the Table Legs! You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Table Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.

Leg Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Stretchers. Cut a 45 degree angle in each end of the long Stretchers and the short Stretchers. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece (to attach to the bottom of the Table). Secure to the Legs (the top of the Stretchers will be flush with the top of the Legs) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Side Table Base Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 8

Position the base frame on the bottom of the Table. It will be located 5” in from each side, and 3-1/2” from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Bottom Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 9

And now on to the drawers!

  • Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Bottom and Sides and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
  • Cut and attach the Top Drawer Front and Back Pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  • Cut and attach the Top Drawer Front to the Drawer Box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The Front will extend 1” above the Drawer Box on the top, 1-1/4” on the sides, and 1/4” on the bottom. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

 

Top Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Top Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Top Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 10

The next three steps will be repeated twice, since this project has two lower drawers of the same size.

  • Cut the pieces for Bottom Drawer Bottoms and Sides and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
  • Cut and attach the Bottom Drawer Fronts and Back Pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  • Cut and attach the Bottom Drawer Finished Fronts to the Drawer Boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The Fronts will extend 3/4” above the Drawer Boxes on the top, 1-1/4” on the sides, and 1/4” on the bottom. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

Bottom Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
15
2014
Reader Showcase // Steppe Dresser for our New Baby!

With a baby on the way, we realized we need some more furniture, pronto. Here's what I built.

Drawers and In Progress Shot for Reader Showcase // Steppe Dresser for our New Baby!
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

About $275

Length of Time 

Two Weeks

Modifications 

Slightly taller drawer boxes, walnut fronts with wood drawer pulls.

Lumber Used 

Birch Ply & Walnut

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