• Essentials from Target for The Design Confidential Feeling Fall // Essentials for Creating a Cozy Mantel
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
  • Family Room Sneak Peek / The Design Confidential in Collaboration with Joss and Main for a Curators Collection Sale Story Interview
  • Hammock and Lounging Area for the Home Depot Style Challenge Outdoor Games Edition
  • DIY Faux Watercolor Wallpaper Wall Treatment with Paint
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Tri Trestle Table
  • DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper
Oct
20
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Project Details

By special reader request, this media console is so very handsome and wants to live in your home... So go forth and build this beautiful baby and make your home that much more stylish! 

The Deets
Finished Build of The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Consol

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 3/4” plywood at – 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-1/4” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/4”x56” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 4 – 2x4 at 6” – Legs
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x56” – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x18” – Center Divider
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x37-1/4” – Left Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x18” – Right Shelf
  • 6 – 1x2 at 16” – Door Tops and Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x2 at 18” – Door Sides
  • 27 – 1x2 at 15” – Door Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Click on Images to expand! 

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Sides, Top, and Bottom. Apply edge banding to front edges of all pieces, if desired. Set the Kreg Jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom pieces. Make sure the pocket holes will face the inside of the Console. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Build the Cabinet Box for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Legs. You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Console Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.

Attach Legs to the bottom of the Console as shown with glue and 1-3/4” wood screws. The Legs should be placed 3/4” from the Sides of the Console and flush with the front edge of the Console. Insert the wood screws down through the Console Bottom into the Legs so that the screws are hidden. Also, make sure that the screws are countersunk so that they do not interfere with items placed inside the Console.

Leg Pattern for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Leg Location for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Step 3

Cut the piece for the Back. Drill pocket holes in each edge of the Back. Attach the Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Console.

Cut the piece for the Center Divider. Drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Divider. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Center Divider for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Shelves. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the shelves and assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. There will be an approximate 1/2” space in the back between the shelves and the Console Back.

Shelves for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Door Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. There will be a 1/4” gap between each Slat. Repeat this for all three Doors. Remember to keep checking for “square” on each door – each door should measure the same diagonally in both directions.

Door Frame for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Door Construction for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Step 6

Attach hinges as shown at the top and bottom of the Doors and attach to the Console. There will be a 1/4” space between each installed Door. Add Door hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

Hinge Placement for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Marin Media Console
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.

If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, and then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Oct
13
2014
DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

Tis the season, as they say, and with this easy project you will add just the right amount of haunt to your Halloween decor, in a snap. To create your own Ram's Horn Display Shelf, only a few items and a few minutes of your time are needed. This project is seriously that easy... if you love the look of taxidermy or horns, then this could easily be a project you create any time of year, it really isn't specific to Halloween!

Spooky Display for The Design Confidential DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

MATERIALS // Shelf

/ 1x6 at 6 feet. I used a dog eared cedar fence board like this because they are really inexpensive!

/ 2 - 1 1/2" Right Angle Brackets

/ 1 1/4" Screws and Wall Anchors for Drywall

/ #6 3/8" Screws if using a fence board and #6 1/2" Screws if using a regular 1x6 board.

/ Gold Ram's Horns

/ Sandpaper

/ Finishing Supplies if you plan to paint or stain your shelf. I left mine natural.

INSTRUCTIONS //

/ Cut your board down to size. Something around or under 3 feet in length is best. Sand according to your intended finish. If you plan to leave natural, sand rough edges and you will obviously need to sand quite a bit more if you plan to stain or paint your shelf. Attach your right angle brackets approximately 4 to 6 inches in from the outside edges of your board (the longer your board, the further in you will place your brackets). The hardware will attach to the bottom your board and hang downward. Mark your holes on the wall where you plan to fasten your shelf (since you attached the brackets to the board already, this will be a snap) and then put your wall anchors in place according to the instructions on the package. Set the screw holes on your bracket hardware over the top of your wall anchors (which should be fairly flush to the wall once in place) and using the screws provided with your anchors, fasten your shelf in place.

/ You are going to place a 2 1/2" drywall screw just to the outside of each of your brackets and fairly close to the bottom of your board. You will not screw this in very far. It should protrude from your wall about 2 1/4" give or take.

/ Cut your horns apart (they likely have a clear cord that would sit around your head if you were using these properly - but we are not - so cut the cord my friends, or at least unsecure it. Holding your horns at the approximate location of your long screws, determine the angle you want them to sit and make a light mark on the top in this place to note the direction for our next step. Using an extra screw, create a small hole in the flat part of the horn that is fairly near the top edge, just below where you made your mark. You are going to use this hole to help you slide the horn over the top of your screw. It will rest on the screw and sit under your board, appearing as though it is the bracket for your shelf. ** You can use a bit of mounting tape or duck tape to stick your horn in place over your brackets so they will hide the hardware and also so they are not loose. You want them to sit nice and tight, right up against your board. 

That is it, you are finished! Place something light weight to display on your shelf!

Antler Display for The Design Confidential DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

To mount my antler inside the frame, I simply used removable mounting putty on each point where it touches the wall. This baby is pretty secure over here, but if you expect small children to be in the vicinity (especially below a sharp pointy antler), perhaps you should secure using nylon finishing line and wrap around the hardware used to hang your frame.

DECOR SOURCES // Halloween Cat / Halloween Crow / Golden Horns

VINTAGE + OTHER ITEMS // Frame is Vintage / Table - Zinc Garden Table from Crate & Barrel - Similar Table Here and Exact Table For Sale By Owner Here / Stacking Candelabra - PotteryBarn - Similar Found Here and Here / Antlers found on eBay - Similar Here and Here / Gold + White Antler Wall Sculpture - Target Threshold Brand - this would work beautifully as well.

Sep
23
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Project Details

I am so excited to share this simple multi function project plan with you guys! Part Side Table, part Magazine or anything you like storage and sheer gorgeous piece of furniture and easy to build plans! This Magazine Sling Side Table seems like it would blend seamlessly with any style of decor and is something even a non-sewing gal like myself could handle! Get your saw ready and make some sawdust fly on this beauty! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at – 2’x2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15-1/2” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 2x4 at 23-1/2” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 1 – 2x4 at 15-1/2” – Top Support
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2”x15-1/2” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 2”x15-1/2” – Sling Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs and Side Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Aprons. Secure Side Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each side of the Table.

Attach the Short Apron with Pocket Hole Screws using the Kreg Jig for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Drill pocket screws in each end of the Aprons. Attach the Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Table as shown in the sketch.

Front and Back Aprons using the Kreg Jig for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 3

Cut the Top Support. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top Support. Attach the Top Support to the Front and Back Aprons as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the same direction as shown in the sketch.

Center Support for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Table Top. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill holes on the underside of the Table Top on all sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. The Table Top will sit 1/2” below the Aprons. Make sure that the pocket holes face the ground as shown in the sketch.

Attach the Table Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 5

Now it’s time to cut the Sling fabric! Cut your fabric as shown. Turn under long edges of the Sling 1/2”, iron, and then turn it under another 1/2” and iron again. Repeat this process with the short edges of the Sling.

To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges.

Making the Sling for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Fabric Sling Pattern for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Sling Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sling Supports. Don’t attach just yet!

Place one of the short ends of the Sling under the Sling Support. Attach the Sling Support with 2-1/2” pocket screws as shown to the Front and Back Aprons. The Sling end should extend 1/2” below the Sling Support. To further avoid the Sling from slipping out of the Sling Support when weighed down with magazines, screw the Sling Support to the adjacent Side Apron with 1-1/4” wood screws.

Sling Supports for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Sling Pattern and Directions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 7

Repeat the same process for the other Sling Support. Let the Sling hang down into the opening.

Now all you have to do is grab a seat and a magazine… and relax!

Finished Build for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
19
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build the Mid Century Hutch
Project Details

This little number is a sister piece to the gorgeous Mid Century Side Table Plans we posted last month. An extremely easy build and a versatile piece that can work alongside many different pieces, in any style you prefer! Happy Friday Friends, can't wait to see what you build this weekend! Happy Sawdust Trails to you... Xx, Rayan

The Deets

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build the Mid Century Hutch
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at – 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 15”x42” – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2”x41-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 15”x20-1/2” – Top
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 14-1/4”x20-1/2” – Shelves
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the plywood for the Sides and Back. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes as shown at the top and sides of the Back (on the backside).

Pattern for Cutting the Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build the Mid Century Hutch
Pattern for Cutting the Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build the Mid Century Hutch
Step 2

Attach the Back to the Sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The Back should sit 3/4” lower than the Sides to accommodate the Top. If desired, attach edge banding to the fronts of the Sides.

Side and Back Assembly using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build the Mid Century Hutch
Step 3

Cut the plywood for the Top. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top piece (on the topside). Attach the Top to the Sides and Back with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. If desired, attach edge banding to the front of the Top.

Fastening the Top in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build the Mid Century Hutch
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Shelves. Drill pocket holes in the ends and back (on the underside of the pieces) of the Shelves. Attach the Shelves to the Sides and Back with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. If desired, attach edge banding to the front of the Shelves. We have made the plans to include two shelves, but feel free to add more! Here we set the shelves 13-1/4” from one another for even spacing.

Attaching the Shelves for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build the Mid Century Hutch
Step 5
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
02
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Project Details

If you liked the original Nova Sofa, but would love a bit more seating, this Sectional unit is just the ticket! Use the pieces from this collection either indoors or outside and it is equally as wonderful for both, perhaps just styled differently, no?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Tools
Lumber
  • 16 – 1x2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 2 – 1x6 at 8’ then rip them into 1x2 strips on the table saw)
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x8 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23-1/2” – Leg
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 6” wide) at 14” – Leg
  • 1 – 2x2 at 49-1/2” – Back Stretcher
  • 6 – 2x2 at 12-1/2” – Support Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 43-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 52-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 4 – 2x2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 25-1/2” x 49-1/2” - Seat
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-1/2” – Arm
  • 1 – 1x3 at 48-3/4” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 50-1/4” – Inner Back Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 30” – Side Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6” – Side Slat
  • 15 – 1x2 at 30” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6” – Front Slat
  • 15 – 1x2 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6” – Front Slats
  • 1 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-1/2” wide) at 54” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 31-1/2” – Left Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, the top edge of the legs, and one long edge of the legs. (There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Fasten Legs Supports and Stretchers using a Miter Saw and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 2

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and the top edge of the support legs, then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Fasten Legs Supports and Stretcher using Miter Saw and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs, front support legs, and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, and the top edge of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Attach Front Legs Supports and Stetcher using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Cut and Attach Seat Supports using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Cut and Attach Inner Slat Support using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Notch Seat using Jig Saw for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Attach Seat using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arm and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Cut and Fasten the Arm using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1x3 slat will be shorter than the 1x2 slats. Position the 1x3 slat between the inner back leg then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1x2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Cut and Attach Inner Back Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Inner Side Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Outer Side Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Outer Back Slats using Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Cut and Attach Front Slats using Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The angles on the trim are not pretty round numbers, but we can connect the dots to draw them. For the left side trim, measure 7-1/2” down from the outer top corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle. Likewise for the top trim, measure 6” across from the top left corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle.  For these angles to work, the chair needs to be square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Cut and Fasten Trim for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
25
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Project Details

Oh this piece of DIY Furniture might be one of my absolute faves! So utterly versatile and just the coolest... lay it flat to enjoy on your front side or snooze and when you feel like it, simply put it in one of several incline positions to lounge and chat! Isn't that amazing? Check out the images at the bottom to see how this gal moves and functions! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 75”– Main Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 29-1/2”– Main Frame Top and Bottom
  • 5 – 1x3 at 31” – Main Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 19”– Middle Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 26”– Middle Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 2-1/2”– Middle Frame Spacers
  • 4 – 1x3 at 27-1/2”– Middle Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 30-1/4”– Upper Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 27-1/2”– Upper Frame Top
  • 5 – 1x3 at 29” – Upper Frame Slats 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the two Main Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole 29” from one end of the Side and 1-3/4” from the top. Please note that all hole measurements will be TO the center of the hole. Drill another 1/2” hole 3” from the other end of the Side. Drill a series of 4 more holes in the same manner as shown, 3” on center and 1-3/4” from the top. You can drill more than 5 holes if you wish – this will give you even more adjustment opportunities! You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. If you feel confident, clamp the Main Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Outside Frame Hole Placement for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 2

Cut out the Main Frame Top and Bottom and attach to the Main Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Outside Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 3

Cut out the Main Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Main Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 4

Next, cut out the Middle Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from each end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Middle Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Mid Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 5

Cut and attach the Middle Frame Top and Bottom to the Middle Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Middle Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 6

Next, cut the Middle Frame Spacers. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from the end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Spacer. Or you can clamp the Spacers together and drill both holes at once through the pieces. Align Spacers with the Sides so that the drilled holes match up and the edges are flush. Attach Spacers to the Middle Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Mid Frame Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 7

Cut out the Middle Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Mid Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 8

On to the last portion of the Futon! Cut the pieces for the Upper Frame Sides. Drill two 1/2” holes – one positioned 1-3/4” from one end, and the other 1-1/4” from the other end, both 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Sides together and drill both holes at once through both pieces.

Upper Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 9

Next, cut the Upper Frame Top and secure to the Upper Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Upper Frame Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 10

Cut out the Upper Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Upper Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 11

This is where the piece really starts to take shape! Lay out the Main Frame on a flat surface. Place the Middle Frame and Upper Frame within the Main Frame as shown. Attach the Upper Frame to the Middle Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Attach the Middle Frame to the Main Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 3” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Use the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips to secure the Upper Frame to the Main Frame in the desired adjustment holes. Add a cushion for extra comfort! After finishing, you might find it helpful to apply a coat of paste wax to the areas of the Futon that pivot and rub against each other. Large washers may also be used for extra reinforcement at the end of the clevis pins. Lastly, use a sander on edges if you want a more rounded, softer appearance. 

Clevis Pin Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 12

Check out how versatile this piece is! It can lay flat or incline to several positions. We’ve included a few more graphics for you to see this Futon in motion.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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