Family

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bridge

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bridge. Yay, moving right along through this collection! We already covered the bench and lockers for this modular family, and today the bridge!

Of course the whole collection can be configured any way you like...

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

1 full sheet of ¾”plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for plywood, optional
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 47-1/2” – Top & Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 47-1/2” – Back
2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 46” – Divider Box Top & Bottom
3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 14-1/4” - Dividers

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the box. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the sides. Assemble as shown and attach the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides, top, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the divider box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter dividers. Position as shown and secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Insert the divider box into the bridge box and secure using 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bench

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bench. We covered the plans for the locker unit here, and now the bench! You can see down below how this lovely modular family actually looks when it's all completed!!! It's fab, right?

Pretty cool, eh?

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

1 - 1x2 at 3’
2 – 1x6 at 8’
1 full sheet of ¾”plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for plywood, optional
One pair of 16” drawer slides
Cabinet knob or pull
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 35-1/2” – Sides
2 – 1x2 at 16-3/4” – Seat Supports
1 – 1x6 at 45-1/2”- Back Stretcher
1 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 45-1/2” – Seat
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 45-1/2” – Back
2 – 1x6 at 11-3/4” – Front Aprons
2 – 1x6 at 16-3/4” – Drawer Supports
1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
2 – 1x6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 16” – Drawer Sides
1 – 1x6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 21” – Drawer Back
1 – 1x6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 21-3/4” – Drawer Front

Instructions

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintain the dimensions as shown when cutting the curves. The curve at the back is optional and can be made by drawing a line 1” in from the back edge, marking the center of that line, then drawing lines from the center to the back corners. Cut out with a jigsaw.

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the seat. The front of the seat will overlap by ½”. Secure to the supports and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or countersunk screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge as show. Position the back so it rests on the seat and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the front aprons and drawer supports. Drill pocket holes in one end of each apron pieces, as well as each end of the drawer supports. Assemble as shown, then attach to the sides and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Attach the cabinet pull or handle if desired.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk! I absolutely love the patchwork pieces from West Elm, so this is heavily inspired by that...allegedly...

Stay tuned because later we will be back with a fun giveaway and a little resolution inspiration!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Scrap of 2x2 measuring approximately 18”
2 – 1x2 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
3 sets of Ball bearing drawer slides(like these)
2 sets of roller drawer slides (like these)
2 sets of hinges
One set of drop-down front supports (like these)
Edge banding for plywood, optional
5 cabinet pulls
ne magnetic catch
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 4” – Legs
2 – 1x2 at 15” – Base Frame
2 – 1x2 at 44” – Base Frame
3 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Base Frame Supports
2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 47” – Top & Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 45” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 45” x 45-1/2” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 45” – Center Divider
3 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 24-3/4” – Drawer Dividers
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 24-3/4” – Shelf
2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20” – Fixed Shelves
2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 19” – Slide-Out Shelves
3 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 22-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Sides
3 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 23-3/4” – Drawer Backs
2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Small Drawer Fronts
1 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Large Drawer Front
1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Desk Top
1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 44-3/4” - Door

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the base frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the top into the frame.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the center divider. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes previously drilled in the sides, divider, and back.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the fixed shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the pull-out shelves. These shelves will use the roller drawer slides in order to make them moveable. The position is up to you… The upper pull-out shelf can be used for a printer so the height of the printer will have to measured before the shelf can be installed. Mark the position and install the slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer boxes by 3/8”. Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the larger door, then secure the hinges to the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.

Install the hinges on the bottom of the door used as the desktop. Install the drop down supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments. Install the magnetic catch at the top of the opening to keep the door closed when not in use. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.

Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Lockers

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Lockers

***Single locker requires 2 sheets of plywood. If building two lockers, a total of three sheets will be required (there will be enough of the second sheet left over to create parts for the second locker).***

You can see above how these pieces will work together once you build a few! Any configuration you want will be fabulous!!!

Estimated Cost

$75-100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

Scrap of 1x4 at 14-1/2”
2 full sheets of ¾”plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
Edge banding for plywood, optional
One set of hinges
Cabinet pull or handle
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 67-3/4” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15” – Bottom
1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 63-1/2” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 16” – Top
1 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
3 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Shelves
1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 63-1/4” - Door

Instructions

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edges of the sides, as well as the longer edges of the bottom. Position as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides and back into the underside of the top.

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket hole in each end. The shelves will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening. Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull or handle.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with a Single Glass Door

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with a Single Glass Door. We have covered quite a few pieces in this collection so far! Somehow I let this baby slide by unpublished, eek!

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Router with 3/8” rabbeting bit
Brad nailer

Lumber

One sheet of ¾” plywood
One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
One set of hinges
One door pull
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Shelves
1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20-1/4” – Top
2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 25-3/8” – Door Frame
2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10” – Door Frame
1 – 3-1/2” trim at 16” – Front Trim

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, rout the inside of the door frame (on the back) to allow for the glass.

Another option for attaching the glass would be to use glass clips to secure the glass to the back of the door frame (with no rabbet) but the shelves will need to be shortened to allow for the thickness of the glass and the clips.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Whitney Project Table

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Whitney Project Table! I can think of a million projects I might do on this project table, and I think it would be the perfect workspace slash utilitarian space of some sort, especially since it has drawers! Yay for storage! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

5 – 1x2 at 8’
1 – 1x2 at 6’
2 – 2x2 at 8’
One sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for plywood, optional
2 sets of 28” drawer slides
Drawer pulls
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
9 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Side Frames & Slide Supports
2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Side Panels
4 – 1x2 at 41-1/2” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Back Panel
1 – 1x2 at 42-1/4” – Lower Stretcher
1 – 1x2 at 5-3/4” – Front Dividers
2 – 2x2 at 5-3/4” – Front Dividers
1 – ¾” plywood at 38” x 60” – Top
2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 27-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 27-1/4” –Drawer Sides
2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-7/8” –Drawer Back
2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 18-5/8” – Drawer Front

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out (one set toward the top and one set toward the bottom). This is so they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled!

Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the lower stretcher as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the pocket holes so they are facing to the inside.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out.

Attach the back assembly to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be positioned so the pocket holes are facing up while the lower stretcher is positioned so the pocket holes face down.

Attach the lower stretcher at the center of the lower side stretchers. The piece can be positioned so the pocket holes face down.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Attach to the front stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretchers into the dividers.

Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position them as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws into the front dividers and the back panel.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the top before the top is secured. The sides will overlap by 1-3/4” at the front and back, and 7-3/4” at each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side panels, back panel, and front stretcher.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Extra Wide Dresser

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Extra Wide Dresser! A fabulous way to finish off this collection, don't you think? Yahoo! Xx... Rayan

Dimensions

Tools

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

4 – 1x2 at 8’
7 – 1x3 at 8’
1 – 2x2 at 2’
1 – 2x2 at 6’
One sheet of ½” plywood
One sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
8 sets of 18” drawer slides
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

8 – 1x3 at 37” – Side, Front, & Back Frames
2 – 1x3 at 19-1/2” – Side Frames
2 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Side Frames
2 – 1x2 at 14-1/2” – Side Frames
2 – ½” plywood at 5-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Side Panels
2 – ½” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-3/4” – Side Panels
2 – 1x3 at 68” – Front & Back Frames
2 – 1x3 at 63” – Front & Back Frames
1 – ½” plywood at 28” x 63” – Back Panel
1 – 1x2 at 28” – Front Frame
2 – 1x2 at 5-3/4” – Front Frame
4 – 1x2 at 30-3/4” – Front Frame
8 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Side Slide & Top Supports
5 – 2x2 at 20” – Slide Supports
2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 21” – Tops
1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Top Center
4 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
8 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 13-5/8” – Drawer Backs
4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 14-3/8” – Drawer Fronts
4 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 28-1/4” –Lower Drawer Bottoms
8 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Lower Drawer Sides
4 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/8” x 29-3/4” – Lower Drawer Backs
4 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/8” x 30-1/2” – Lower Drawer Fronts

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece, the center frame piece, and the lower frame piece. Also, drill pocket holes in the outer edges of the legs to attach the front and back frames.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the side panels with the back faces flush with the inside face of the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes and assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the frame to the front using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece and the lower frame piece.

Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the panel with the back face flush with the inside face of the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the back to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames and bottom.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the top support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 pieces. Attach to the sides of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame as well as flush with the inside edge of the front frame.

Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 slide support. Attach to the front frame divider using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws and to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the slide support will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes around all four edges. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside. The top face will be flush with the top edge of the front, back, and side frames.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom pieces as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the front and back as shown. The drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts. Install the cabinet hardware.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Bedside Table

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Bedside Table. Still loving this collection! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

1 – 1x2 at 6’
5 – 1x3 at 8’
1 – 1x4 at 8’
One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
Half sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
Edge banding for plywood, if desired
1 set of 18” drawer slides
2 sets of hinges
Door & Drawer pulls
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

8 – 1x3 at 29” – Legs
2 – 1x3 at 18” – Side Frames
2 – 1x3 at 13” – Side Frames
2 – ½” plywood at 13” x 21” – Side Panels
2 – 1x3 at 28” – Front & Back Frames
2 – 1x3 at 23” – Front & Back Frames
1 – ½” plywood at 21” x 23”- Back Panel
1 – 1x2 at 23” – Front Frame
2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 26-1/2” – Top & Bottom
2 – 1x2 at 18” – Slide Supports
1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
2 – 1x4 at 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
1 – 1x4 at 22” – Drawer Back
1 – 1x4 at 22-3/4” – Drawer Front
2 – ¾” plywood at 11-5/16” x 15-1/2” - Doors

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Cut the miters in the tops of the legs as well as each end of the top frame piece. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered ends of the top frame piece, each end of the lower frame piece, and the outside edge of the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panel. Position the panel in the frame with the back face flush with the inside of the panel. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Cut the miters in the tops of the legs as well as each end of the top frame piece. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered ends of the top frame piece, each end of the lower frame piece, and the 1x2 stretcher. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side legs into the front legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top and bottom. Drill pocket hole screws in all four edges of each piece. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the top will be flush with the top edge of the front and side frames. The bottom will be flush with the top edge of the lower frame pieces.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the back. Assemble in the same manner as the sides. Attach to the sides, top, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the doors. Apply edge banding to all four edges if desired. Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach to the cabinets. Make any necessary adjustments.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Large Dawson Media Console

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Large Dawson Media Console. LOVE this collection, that's all I have to say... Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

4 – 1x2 at 8’
7 – 1x4 at 8’
1 – 2x2 at 2’
One sheet of ½” plywood
One sheet of ¾” plywood
One half sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/2” pocket hole screws
5 sets of 18” drawer slides
Drawer & Door Pulls
Two sets of hinges
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

8 – 1x4 at 38” – Side, Front, & Back Frames
2 – 1x4 at 20” – Side Frames
2 – 1x4 at 13” – Side Frames
2 – 1x2 at 13” – Side Frames
2 – ½” plywood at 8” x 13” – Side Panels
2 – ½” plywood at 13” x 17-1/2” – Side Panels
2 – 1x4 at 72” – Front & Back Frames
2 – 1x4 at 65” – Front & Back Frames
1 – ½” plywood at 27” x 65” – Back Panel
1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 70-1/2” – Bottom
1 – 1x2 at 65” – Front Frame
2 – 1x2 at 7-1/2” – Front Frame
2 – 1x2 at 18” – Front Frame
1 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” – Front Frame
8 – 1x2 at 20” – Side Slide & Top Supports
2 – 2x2 at 20” – Slide Supports
2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 23-1/2” – Tops
1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Top Center
2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 18-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
10 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 19-3/4” – Drawer Backs
2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
3 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 18” – Center & Lower Drawer Bottoms
1 - ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Center Drawer Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 20-1/4” – Center Drawer Front
2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 19-1/2” – Lower Drawer Backs
2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 20-1/4” – Lower Drawer Fronts
2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 20-1/2” - Doors

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the side panel pieces to the horizontal pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1” pocket holes through the side panels into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the top frame pieces.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes and assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the frame to the front using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames and bottom.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the front and back edges. Attach to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the bottom piece should be flush with the top of the lower frame pieces at the sides and back.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the back panel piece to the top and bottom pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1” pocket holes through the side panels into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the top frame pieces.

Step 5

Step 6

Cut the piece for the top support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors as well as in the center. Install the hinges and the cabinet hardware.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Tray Table

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Tray Table! Um... how cute is this! LOVE this project and I hope you do to! It's part of a large collection we are rolling out and I can't wait to see who builds from it first! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
1” paddle bit or hole saw
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

1 – 1x2 at 6’
2 - 1x2 at 8'
1 – 1x6 at 8’
Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x6 at 16-1/2” – Tray Frame
2 – 1x6 at 30” – Tray Frame
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 28-1/2” – Tray Bottom
4 – 1x2 at 37-9/16” – Legs
2 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Stretchers
2 – 1x2 at 15” - Stretchers

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw or miter saw.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach the stretchers to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be parallel to the angle in the top of the leg and the lower stretcher will be parallel with the outside edge of the leg.

Attach the legs to each other as shown using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Maintain the dimensions shown.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the tray frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Using a paddle bit or hole saw, drill two holes in the side frame pieces as shown. Draw lines connecting the top of the holes as well as the bottom of the holes, then cut out with a jigsaw to create the handles.

Draw the notches on the lower edges of the longer frame pieces and cut out with a jigsaw. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the tray bottom. Drill pocket holes as shown. Position the bottom in the frame 1” up from the lower edge and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.