Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Clara Buffet with a Drop-Down TV Option! This is a Custom Plan for a reader with a TV containment and dropdown option! How cool is that biz... yahoo Xx...Rayan
$100-$150
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.
Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the two shorter ends. Attach the sides with the bottom of the frames flush with the bottom face using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the large divider. Drill pocket holes as shown, and secure to the bottom and sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the three shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Attach the feet to the frame with countersunk 2” screws through the base frame into the feet.
Attach the base to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the frame into the bottom.
Cut the piece for the narrower divider. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges, and secure to the large divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of each shelf and secure with the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower shelves are narrower and are located ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Cut the opening as shown. Secure to the cabinet with ½” overlap at the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, dividers, and stretchers.
Cut the piece for the door. Cut an optional finger hole at the front of the door to make it easier to open. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. The hinge can be placed at the front or back of the opening.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Attach the bottom to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front and back, and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Cube. Perfect with the other pieces in the Modular Family collection!!!
$25-$50
If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edges of the sides, as well as the longer edges of the bottom. Position as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides and back into the underside of the top.
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening. Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull or handle.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bridge. Yay, moving right along through this collection! We already covered the bench and lockers for this modular family, and today the bridge!
Of course the whole collection can be configured any way you like...
Cut the pieces for the box. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the sides. Assemble as shown and attach the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides, top, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the divider box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter dividers. Position as shown and secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Insert the divider box into the bridge box and secure using 1-1/4” brad nails.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bench. We covered the plans for the locker unit here, and now the bench! You can see down below how this lovely modular family actually looks when it's all completed!!! It's fab, right?
Pretty cool, eh?
$50-$75
Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintain the dimensions as shown when cutting the curves. The curve at the back is optional and can be made by drawing a line 1” in from the back edge, marking the center of that line, then drawing lines from the center to the back corners. Cut out with a jigsaw.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Cut the piece for the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat. The front of the seat will overlap by ½”. Secure to the supports and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or countersunk screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge as show. Position the back so it rests on the seat and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front aprons and drawer supports. Drill pocket holes in one end of each apron pieces, as well as each end of the drawer supports. Assemble as shown, then attach to the sides and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side.
Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Attach the cabinet pull or handle if desired.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk! I absolutely love the patchwork pieces from West Elm, so this is heavily inspired by that...allegedly...
Stay tuned because later we will be back with a fun giveaway and a little resolution inspiration!
Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the base frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the top into the frame.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center divider. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes previously drilled in the sides, divider, and back.
Cut the piece for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the fixed shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the pull-out shelves. These shelves will use the roller drawer slides in order to make them moveable. The position is up to you… The upper pull-out shelf can be used for a printer so the height of the printer will have to measured before the shelf can be installed. Mark the position and install the slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer boxes by 3/8”. Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the larger door, then secure the hinges to the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.
Install the hinges on the bottom of the door used as the desktop. Install the drop down supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments. Install the magnetic catch at the top of the opening to keep the door closed when not in use. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.
Install the cabinet pulls.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Lockers
***Single locker requires 2 sheets of plywood. If building two lockers, a total of three sheets will be required (there will be enough of the second sheet left over to create parts for the second locker).***
You can see above how these pieces will work together once you build a few! Any configuration you want will be fabulous!!!
$75-100
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site. Always make sure you buy easy to assemble furniture
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket hole in each end. The shelves will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with a Single Glass Door. We have covered quite a few pieces in this collection so far! Somehow I let this baby slide by unpublished, eek!
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.
Cut the pieces for the door frame. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, rout the inside of the door frame (on the back) to allow for the glass.
Another option for attaching the glass would be to use glass clips to secure the glass to the back of the door frame (with no rabbet) but the shelves will need to be shortened to allow for the thickness of the glass and the clips.
Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Whitney Project Table! I can think of a million projects I might do on this project table, and I think it would be the perfect workspace slash utilitarian space of some sort, especially since it has drawers! Yay for storage! Xx... Rayan
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out (one set toward the top and one set toward the bottom). This is so they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled!
Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the lower stretcher as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the pocket holes so they are facing to the inside.
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out.
Attach the back assembly to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be positioned so the pocket holes are facing up while the lower stretcher is positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Attach the lower stretcher at the center of the lower side stretchers. The piece can be positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Attach to the front stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretchers into the dividers.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position them as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws into the front dividers and the back panel.
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the top before the top is secured. The sides will overlap by 1-3/4” at the front and back, and 7-3/4” at each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side panels, back panel, and front stretcher.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Extra Wide Dresser! A fabulous way to finish off this collection, don't you think? Yahoo! Xx... Rayan
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece, the center frame piece, and the lower frame piece. Also, drill pocket holes in the outer edges of the legs to attach the front and back frames.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the side panels with the back faces flush with the inside face of the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes and assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the frame to the front using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames.
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece and the lower frame piece.
Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the panel with the back face flush with the inside face of the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the back to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames and bottom.
Cut the piece for the top support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 pieces. Attach to the sides of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame as well as flush with the inside edge of the front frame.
Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 slide support. Attach to the front frame divider using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws and to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the slide support will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame.
Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes around all four edges. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside. The top face will be flush with the top edge of the front, back, and side frames.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom pieces as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the front and back as shown. The drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts. Install the cabinet hardware.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Bedside Table. Still loving this collection! Xx... Rayan
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Cut the miters in the tops of the legs as well as each end of the top frame piece. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered ends of the top frame piece, each end of the lower frame piece, and the outside edge of the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panel. Position the panel in the frame with the back face flush with the inside of the panel. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Cut the miters in the tops of the legs as well as each end of the top frame piece. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered ends of the top frame piece, each end of the lower frame piece, and the 1x2 stretcher. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side legs into the front legs.
Cut the pieces for the top and bottom. Drill pocket hole screws in all four edges of each piece. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the top will be flush with the top edge of the front and side frames. The bottom will be flush with the top edge of the lower frame pieces.
Cut the pieces for the back. Assemble in the same manner as the sides. Attach to the sides, top, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Apply edge banding to all four edges if desired. Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach to the cabinets. Make any necessary adjustments.
