Family

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Emerson Secretary Chest. This piece is so fantastic that I think I need one right this second!

Ps...I hope you will join us for the remaining giveaways we have going on, and stay tuned for the winner announcement for the Home Depot Gift cards from PureBond!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 4 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 – Baseboard or Casing Trim at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • One set of hinges
  • One set of drop front supports (like these for writing surface)
  • Two magnetic catches
  • 6 sets of 10” drawer slides
  • Drawer pulls or handles for the drawers and writing surface
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 53-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 58-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24-3/8” x 58-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Center Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 12-1/4” – Bottom Support
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 23-1/4” – Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 18” – Side Shelves
  • 2 – 1x2 at 53-1/4” – Front Frame
  • 1 – 1x4 at 57” – Front Frame
  • 1 – 1x2 at 57” – Front Frame
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 57” – Front Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-3/4” – Front Frame
  • 1 – 1x2 at 24” – Front Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 27-3/4” – Front Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 11-1/2” – Drawer Slide Supports
  • 3 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Drawer Slide Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 61-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – trim at 13” – Side Trim
  • 2 – trim at 61-1/2” – Front Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 20-3/4” – Writing Surface
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 25-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 12 – 1x6 at 9-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 12 – 1x6 at 26-3/4” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 27-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece as well as the top edge of the side pieces. Attach the bottom to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes around all four edges of each piece as shown. Secure the pieces to each other using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the center shelf. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as one of the long edges for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.

Cut the piece for the bottom support. Drill pocket holes in one long edge. Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the sides. Start with the longest horizontal pieces as shown in the first drawing and attach them to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the pieces shown in the second drawing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the pieces as shown in the third drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the entire frame assembly to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The tops of the frame pieces at the side shelves and the center shelves should be flush with the tops of the shelves.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 pieces only. Attach to the center of the drawer area on the frame (as well as to the back) using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the 1x2 drawer slide supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

The bottom edge of the supports should be even with the top edge of the frame pieces (see the drawing).

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overlap by ¾”. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower trim. Attach the side pieces first, then attach the front pieces using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for the writing surface. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. Attach the hinges to the bottom of the surface to the cabinet according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Attach the drop-front supports to the sides of the opening and the writing surface according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Attach the magnetic catches to the inside of the top of the writing surface.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Attach the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the front and back of the drawer boxes. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, <a href="http://designsbystudioc.com/how-to-install-drawer-slides/">click here</a>. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 10
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the drawer hardware.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Emerson Secretary Chest
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with Two Glass Doors! This would be fabulous on it's own or as a base to a desk or shelves!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Router with 3/8” rabbeting bit
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 2 - sets of hinges
  • 2 door pulls
  • Glass or Plexiglas for doors
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 28-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 29-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 31” – Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 25-1/8” – Door Frame
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10-7/16” – Door Frame
  • 1 – 3-1/2” trim at 31” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, rout the inside of the door frames (on the back) to allow for the glass.

Another option for attaching the glass would be to use glass clips to secure the glass to the back of the door frame (with no rabbet) but the shelves will need to be shortened to allow for the thickness of the glass and the clips.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with Drawers

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Six drawer pulls
  • 3 – sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20-1/4” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 15-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 15-1/4” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 13-1/2” – Drawer Box Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 14-1/4” – Drawer Box Fronts
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/8” x 15-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 3-1/2” trim at 16” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece. Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Attach the sides to the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer box front and back. Attach the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

The drawer box assembly is narrower than the drawer box front. The drawer box will be positioned ¼” from the bottom of the front as well as 3/8” in from each side. This will allow the drawer box front to have a 1/8” gap around all sides in the opening.

 

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Position them so that the first one starts 1/8” below the top, and there is 1/8” spacing between each piece. The pieces will overlap the sides by 3/8”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

 Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Inspired Debutante Vanity and Bench.

Psst... we will be back in just a bit to kick off our amazing week of giveaways! yay! Stay tuned and check back here for those details and for the first giveaway reveal and entry!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Router with flush-cutting bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 14” drawer slides
  • Drawer pull
  • Mirror and clips
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 24-1/4” - Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14” – Side Aprons
  • 1 – 1x4 at 26” – Back Apron
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6” – Front Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Drawer Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 30” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 14” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14” – Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 13” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – 1x4 (ripped to 3-3/8” wide) at 15” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 29” – Mirror Frame
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6” – Mirror Frame Sides
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 13” x 18-1/2” – Bench Seat
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Bench Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 9” – Bench Side Aprons
  • 4 – 2x2 at 15-1/4” – Bench Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The aprons will be centered on the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back apron.  Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back apron will also be centered on the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front aprons and drawer supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer supports as well as one end of the front apron. Attach the drawer support to the apron using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. There will be a left and a right piece. Attach each assembly to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the vanity using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the legs, aprons, and supports. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back in the same manner. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the mirror frame and sides. Cut the arcs using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of the mirror frame and in the sides as shown. There will be a left and right side piece. Attach the sides to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire frame to the vanity top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the mirror as shown using a glass cutter. Attach to the back side of the frame using mirror clips.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the sides of the bench. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The aprons will be centered on the legs.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the longer aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The aprons will be centered on the legs.
Step 10
Step 11

 

Cut the piece for the seat. The seat will overlap the frame by ½” on all sides. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Inspired Debutante Vanity and Bench
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Grid Hutch!

Psst... don't forget to join us here on Monday for the Really Big Giveaway kickoff! I know I usually only post once on Fridays, but I will be back in just a bit with a fabulous holiday DIY project for you all.. yahoo...

Tune in with me over the weekend on Facebook for a few sneak peaks at our giveaway prize packages for next week!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One full sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” - Top
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 12” x 33-1/2” – Grid
  • 7 – ½” plywood at 12” x 16” – Grid
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes on the side edges, as well as the back edge. Attach to the side frames and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the grid. Use a jigsaw to cut the notches as shown. Assemble and insert into the cabinet, then attach using 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the grid pieces.

Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Grid Base

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One full sheet of ½” plywood
  • Piece of 3-1/2” trim at 18”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1” screws
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • One set of 10” drawer slides
  • 2 – drawer pulls
  • 2 – 1” x 1” x 1/8” angle at 11”
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3” x 16-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Upper Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 14”- Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-15/16” x 16-1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/4” – Pullout
  • 1 – 3-1/2” piece of trim at 18” - Trim
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 12” x 25” – Grid
  • 5 – ½” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Grid
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the kick plate and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the upper shelf & bottom. Drill pocket holes on the side edges, as well as the back edge. Attach to the side frames and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.

Step 4
Step 5

Attach the angle inside above the upper shelf as shown using countersunk screws.

Cut the piece for the pullout. The pullout will rest on the metal angles.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the drawer assembly to the front as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. The drawer should be positioned so that there is a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the trim. Attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the grid. Use a jigsaw to cut the notches as shown. Assemble and insert into the cabinet, then attach using 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the grid pieces.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Shelf Hutch. The perfect topper for this piece...

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the bottom. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge of each piece. Attach to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Cabinet Base

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One half sheet of ½” plywood
  • Piece of 3-1/2” trim at 18”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1” screws
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • One set of hinges
  • 3 – drawer pulls
  • 2 – 1” x 1” x 1/8” angle at 11”
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3” x 16-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Upper Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Center Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 14”- Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-15/16” x 16-1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/4” – Pullout
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 24-3/4” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 11-1/4” – Door Frame
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 11-1/4” x 19-3/4” – Door Panel
  • 1 – 3-1/2” piece of trim at 18” - Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the kick plate and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the upper shelf & bottom. Drill pocket holes on the side edges, as well as the back edge. Attach to the side frames and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center shelf. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. The shelf will be set back ¾” from the front edge of the cabinet.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.

Step 4
Step 5

Attach the angle inside above the upper shelf as shown using countersunk screws.

Cut the piece for the pullout. The pullout will rest on the metal angles.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the drawer assembly to the front as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. The drawer should be positioned so that there is a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces.

Cut the piece for the door panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the shorter door frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the panel assembly to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the trim. Attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

If you need something fabulous for your furry friends this holiday season, then this Free DIY Furniture Plan to Build a Town Haus Inspired Doggie Den is just the thing for you!

Psst... If you would like to celebrate the holidays a tad early with a full week of giveaways, from me (and some lovely sponsors) to you, then please check in daily for more information and a giveaway schedule... I would hate for you to miss out on the fun! Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – 1x2 at 3’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 2 pieces of ½” trim at 6’
  • 2 pieces of 2-1/2” trim at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • 1 – Cupboard catch
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Decorative punched aluminum
  • Turnbuttons and screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 - 1x3 at 25-3/4” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 24-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x6 at 24-1/2” –Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 11” x 24-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/2” x 25-3/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/2” x 28-3/4” – Bottom
  • 1 – 1x2 (ripped to 1” wide) at 23-1/2” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x3 (ripped to 2-1/4” wide) at 23-1/2” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 18-1/4”- Door Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 21-1/2” – Door Frame
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 26” x 30-1/2” – Top
  • 2 – ½” trim at 30” – Upper Trim
  • 2 – ½” trim at 26” – Upper Trim
  • 2 – 2-1/2” trim at 30” – Lower Trim
  • 2 – 2-1/2” trim at 26” – Lower Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter 1x3 pieces and the 1x6 piece.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach one set of the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the 1x6 pieces in the same manner. The back face of the panels should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side panel assemblies and the remaining 1x3 frame pieces to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. Attach to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces.

Cut the piece for the door panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach one set of the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the door frame assembly to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments so that the door has a 1/8” gap around all sides in the opening. Install the cupboard catch.

If desired, cut and attach the decorative aluminum in the opening using the turnbuttons and screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. The edges will overlap by 1/2”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into back and side panels, as well as the upper stretcher.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach the side pieces first, using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back pieces.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

ATTENTION: We will be celebrating something fabulous the first week of December for a little early Holiday Appreciation of you all... Stay tuned for more details and be sure to check in daily for updates and instructions on particpating! I will be including details on our regularly scheduled posts (just like this),. You never know when something interesting will Pop Up, so be sure to check in often. 

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming and Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an X Coffee Table - Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x12 at 4’
  • 2 – 2’ x 4’ sheets of plywood
Materials
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • 2” edge banding for edges of top
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 27” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 12-15/16” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4at 13-9/16” – Legs
  • 2- 2x4 at 14-7/16” – Shelf Supports
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 48” – Top
  • 1 – 1x12 at 46” - Shelf
  • 2 – 2x4 at 2-1/2” – Shelf Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the bevels in the legs using a miter saw or jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the straight ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 2”pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Position as shown, then attach using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the legs into the ends of the supports.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. Spread glue over the face of one of the pieces and position the other on top. Wiggle the top piece to create suction then clamp together until dry. Attach the legs using toenailed screws through the ends of the legs into the top.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut a 45 deg. bevel along each long edge using a circular saw or table saw. Attach to the supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/2” screws.

Cut the pieces for the shelf legs. Drill pocket holes in one end of each piece. Attach to the underside of the shelf using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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