Feb
21
2014
Project Details

You know I love an interesting dining table, as evidenced by my most recent build here. I love the intricate seeming nature of this table's base, especially since I know it isn't all that difficult to construct, but would certainly seem so... Xx... Rayan

 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 23 – 1x2 at 8’ (it may be more economical to purchase 8 – 1x6 at 8’ and rip strips on the table saw to 1-1/2” wide)
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 18 – 1x2 at 48” – Base Frame
  • 18 – 1x2 at 14-1/4” – Base Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 29-1/4” – Base Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 84” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/4” – Top Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 41-1/4” x 84” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1x2 pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Draw a ¾” radius at each corner and cut out with a jigsaw. Sand the edges thoroughly.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs.  It will be easier to mark the position for all of the frames on the back side of each leg at the spacing shown (adding for the thickness of the frames), and pre-drill the holes for the screws. Working on a flat surface, attach the legs to the first frame with the bottoms flush, using glue and countersunk 2” screws.  Orient the pocket holes in the frame so they face down. Position the next frame, then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws. Continue “layering” the frames. The last frame should be flush with the top of the legs.

Another tip – cut spacers equal to the distance between the frames to help hold the frames in place as they are being secured.

Step 3

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the top frame. Cut a 45° bevel in one long edge of each piece, as well as each end of the longer 1x2 pieces. Secure to the bottom edge of the plywood piece for the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bevels will face out.

Step 4

With the bottom face of the top facing up, flip the base over and position it on the top. The base will sit 18” in from each side and 12” in from each long edge. Secure using 1-1/2” screws through the upper frame in the base into the top

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
19
2014
Project Image
Project Details

On Monday I shared the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor Sofa, and today the matching chair! That is pretty exciting my friends, and I feel like we can help usher in the warmer temps just by sending those positive springtime thoughts out into the universe, don't you? A little mind over matter, yeah? No?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 15 – 1x2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 5 – 1x6 at 8’ then rip them into 1x2 strips on the table saw)
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x8 at 4’
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  6- 2x6 (ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21-3/4” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x2 at 31-1/2” – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x2 at 25-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 34-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 3 – 2x2 at 23” – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 2x2 at 7-3/4” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 26” x 28-1/2” - Seat
  • 2 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23” – Arms
  • 1 – 1x3 at 25-1/2” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Inner Back Slats
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 6 – 1x2 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 4 – 1x3 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 18 – 1x2 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 36” – Back & Front Slats
  • 15 – 1x2 at 36” – Back & Front Slats
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 6 – 1x2 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 2 – 1x8 (ripped to 6” wide at 32”) - Trim
  • 1 – 1x8 at 36” - Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for two of the legs and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge and one long edge of each leg.(There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the front legs and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge only of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arms and drill pocket holes at one end only. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1x3 slat will be shorter than the 1x2 slats. Position the 1x3 slat between the inner back legs then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1x2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 10
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The back trim piece angles should be cut at 39 degrees and the side trim piece angles should be cut at 51 degrees, provided the chair is square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. //Posts may contain affiliate links

Feb
17
2014
Project Image
Project Details

What do you think? Could you cozy up on this beauty come summer? Well, with a nice fluffy cushion or 12? I could... and honestly I'm craving spring and summer so very much right now that all I want to do is sit and stare at the sky and wish for warmer temps... while I'm bundled up in gloves and a scarf. But really I live in Northern California and so it's not really that cold and so clearly I'm a wimp. It's certainly nowhere near as chilly as it is for those of you in the midst of this snowpocalypse (am I spelling that right? eek).

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 23 – 1x2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 8 – 1x6 at 8’ then rip them into 1x2 strips on the table saw)
  • 6 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x8 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 6- 2x6 (ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21-3/4” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x2 at 77” – Back Stretcher
  • 9 – 2x2 at 12-1/2” – Support Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 71” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 80” – Upper Back
  • 5 – 2x2 at 23” – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 2x2 at 7-3/4” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 26” x 74” - Seat
  • 2 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23” – Arms
  • 1 – 1x3 at 71” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 74” – Inner Back Slats
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 6 – 1x2 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 4 – 1x3 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 18 – 1x2 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 81-1/2” – Back & Front Slats
  • 15 – 1x2 at 81-1/2” – Back & Front Slats
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 6 – 1x2 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 2 – 1x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 32” - Trim
  • 1 – 1x8 at 81-1/2” - Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for two of the legs, three of the support legs,  and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge of the legs, and one long edge of the wider legs.(There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

 

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back leg and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for three of the support legs, inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and the top edge of the support legs, then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the front legs, front support legs, and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge only of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arms and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1x3 slat will be shorter than the 1x2 slats. Position the 1x3 slat between the inner back legs then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1x2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 10
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The back trim piece angles should be cut at 39 degrees and the side trim piece angles should be cut at 51 degrees, provided the chair is square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // This post may contain affiliate links.

Feb
12
2014
Project Details

A bookshelf that has a few drawers is a good looking bookshelf indeed. Not to mention it helps you store and hide those things that are cluttery and not so pretty to display, yahoo! If you want to browse through some of our other plans for bookshelves, we have tons and tons! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x10 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x3 at 8’ (or 4 – 2x4 ripped down to 2-1/2” wide)
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – 4’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 4’ x 8’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 43-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 39-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2x3 at 44” – Front Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 44” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 38-1/2” x 44” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 48” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 41-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x10 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x10 at 43” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43-3/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 5-7/16” x 21-13/16” – False Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along the long edges of each panel. Secure the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position on the front as shown securing with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along all four edges of each panel. Secure the shelves to the front stretcher and cabinet sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

Step 4

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes along the 38-1/2” edges. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the shelves to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that the front and sides overhang by ½” secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them 1” back from the front edge of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Position the ¼” false drawer fronts on the ¾” base so they are flush with the edges with a 1/8” gap between them. Secure in place with glue and ½” brad nails. Clamps may also be used to hold them in place until the glue dries. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

/ Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

/ This post may contain affiliate links.

Feb
05
2014
Project Image
Project Details

It's the simple projects that really excite me. Somehow I always get myself into long drawn out projects, that go on for days and days, but the simple ones that can be multiplied into an amazing dramatic affect... those are the ones that get me going in the morning! This cellar wine rack could easily double as awesome shelving for just about anything so don't be fooled by the name of this bad boy. Imagine a whole wall (or half of a wall) lined with these gorgeous X's. Wouldn't that be amazing? Yahoo! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 9” x 19” – Box Frame
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 9” x 20” – Box Frame
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 9” x 26-3/8” - X
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the box frame. Assemble the box frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the X and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Slide the pieces together to form the X insert.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Insert the X into the box frame. It should fit snugly. Secure the X with a few 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
03
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this cute doored cabinet is a fabulous addition to your space, especially if you have items to store and display. Can't wait to see what you all do with your own variations! The doors can be made with plywood, glass or plexi depending on your preference! Yahoo. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood - or this can be glass or plexi depending on the type of cabinet you would like to build! 
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 piece of ¾” x ¾” x 8’ trim
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 35-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 29-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30-1/4” x 36” – Back Panel
  • 1 – 2x2 at 36” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 36” – Front Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 36” – Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 41” - Top
  • Trim for top cut to fit
  • 4 – 1x2 at 29-1/4” – Door Stiles
  • 6 – 1x2 at – 14-13/16” – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12-3/8” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ¼” plywood or glass or plexi at 15-13/16” x 27-1/4” – Door Backing
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper as shown using a jigsaw, bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the side frames and panels. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting for the thicknesses of the materials, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.  Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws – 2-1/2” through the upper frame pieces and 1-1/4” through the lower frame pieces.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.  Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end (with the pocket hole jig set for the appropriate material setting). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the upper stretcher and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the lower stretcher.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the shelf. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, and the sides and back of the shelf. Secure the bottom to the lower stretcher and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the shelf as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by 1”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the trim. No measurements are given because it will depend on the type of trim used. Install the side pieces first, then install the front. Secure using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the door frames and drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the backing or have glass or plexi cut to size. The pieces will overlap the opening in the frame by ½” on all sides. Secure using glue and 5/8” brad nails or mirror clips.

Step 7

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. Install the cabinet pulls. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affilliate links

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