Free Woodworking Plans to Build a 2×2 Cantilevered Table

Project Image

This easy to build cantilevered table can be used for a variety of things, but my main purpose for creating this plan is to give you a table that can tuck under the edge of your sofa or a chair and sit over the armrest for use with a laptop, drinks, remotes, your book…whatever you might fancy. This would be fabulous outside next to a chaise lounge or reclining chair, it would even be a fabulous plant stand. Did I mention this is cheap to build? Yep super cheap, under $20 for the wood and you can use a box of construction screws meant for wood on wood building, which are typically cheaper and much more durable. You won’t tear out the top of your screws as frequently…

Estimated Cost

Under $25

  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Saw – unless your hardware store will make cuts for you
  • Drill
  • ** Kreg Jig- this is optional since you are perfectly able just screw your boards together as you would any other piece, however…this piece in particular will look much much cleaner and be a bit stronger if you use a Pocket Hole System. You can purchase a Kreg R3 Jr.for around $40. A great buy if you plan on building anything in the future.
  • Here you have a choice again…This decision has no bearing on strength or stability, this is simply a matter of choice based on availability and price.You will choose option 2 if 1×2’s are less expensive (my experience is that they generally aren’t) or if the selection of boards available in 1×2’s is better…
  • Option 1:
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • Option 2:
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • You will purchase one of the following 3 Screws, you don’t need all of them!
  • **1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws – If you would like to use a Kreg Jig for creating pocket holes (as explained below) to assemble this table, and you will be using 1×2’s for the table top portion.
  • **2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws – If using a Kreg Jig and 2×2’s for the table top.
  • **2 1/2″ Wood Screws – If you don’t have a Kreg Jig. You will countersink your screws for the most professional appearance. Galvanized or Stainless are best for outdoor use. Wood Filler Wood Glue Sanding Supplies Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • Option 1 Cut list:
  • 4 – 2×2 at 20″ (Base and Top Frame)
  • 2 – 2×2 at 24 1/2″ (Legs)
  • 11 – 2×2 at 17″ (Base, Top Frame and Table Slats)
  • Option 2 Cut list:
  • 4 – 2×2 at 20″ (Base and Top Frame)
  • 2 – 2×2 at 24 1/2″ (Legs)
  • 3 – 2×2 at 17″ (Base Frame and Top Frame)
  • 8 – 1×2 at 17″ (Table Slats)

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

Build the Base: if you are using a Kreg Jig, place your pocket holes on the inside of the 17″ piece. For regular screws fasten from the outside of the 20″ pieces into the 17″ piece on both sides.

Step 2
Step 2

Fasten the Legs to the top of the Base Frame: place pocket holes on the inside of legs.

Step 3
Step 3

Fasten the 20″ Top Frame pieces to the top of the Legs, then attach the 17″ Frame pieces to them. Once you have that structure in place you can attach your Table Slats.

Step 4
Step 4

If you are using a Pocket Hole System create your pockets as shown in the diagram below. If you are using regular screws to assemble, you might also consider attaching the slats by screwing from underneath the 20″ Top Frame pieces at an angle up into the slats to hide them. This is a bit trickier to do, and you will need to pre-drill with a countersink drill bit to avoid having your screw stick out a bit, but is definitely a possibility. You would need to use 2×2’s for the slats if you were going to do this last option. The image below shows this piece with 1×2 slats.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *