This collection gets more exciting by the day! I know you will love this fabulous storage piece regardless of how genius you think Martha Stewart is, or not? Inspired by her Craft Space Collection sold by Home Decorator's. This piece retails for over $400 once you include the special handling cost, and that isn't even including the cost of shipping in general! You can build it for hundreds less!
The 3 Drawer Flat File with the Hutch on top!
Showcase: Built From These Plans
Kreg Jig – optional but definitely recommended
Saw – optional and can have pieces cut at local lumber supply
1 sheet of 3/4″ Plywood or MDF
1 sheet of 1/2″ Plywood
4 – 1×2 at 10' (2 at 39″ and 1 at 25″ per board when cutting)
1 – 1×2 at 6' (2 at 25″ when cutting)
2 – 2×2 at 8'
2 – 1/4×3/4 Trim (Lattice Board) at 10'
1 – 1/4×3/4 Trim at 3'
24″ Full Extension Side Mount Drawer Slides with 1/2″ clearance – 3 pair
6 Drawer Pulls
1 1/4″ Pocket hole screws
1″ Pocket hole screws
3″ Wood Screws – if not using a pocket hole system
2 1/2″ Wood screws – if not using a pocket hole system
1″ Wood Screws
2″ Finish nails
3/4″ Finish nails
4 – 2×2 at 35 1/4″ Legs
1 -3/4″ Stock at 39″x17″ Back Panel
2 -3/4″ Stock at 25″x17″ Side Panels
2 -3/4″ Stock at 25″x39″ Bottom Panel Bottom Shelf
1 -3/4″ Stock at 28″x42″ Top
6 – 1×2 at 25″ Rails
8 – 1×2 at 39″ Rails
1 -1×4 at 38 3/4″ Shallow Drawer False Front
4 – 1/2″ Ply at 3″ x 23″ Shallow Drawer Sides
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 3″ x 36 1/2″” Shallow Drawer Back
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 3″ x 37 1/2″ Shallow Drawer Front
2 – 3/4″ Ply at 3 1/2″ x 38 3/4″ Shallow Drawer False Front
3 – 1/2″ Ply at 23″ x 36 1/2″ Drawer Bottoms
2 – 1/2″ Ply at 7 1/4″ x 23″ Large Drawer Sides
1 – 1/2″ Ply at 7 1/4″ x 36 1/2″” Large Drawer Back
1 – 1/2″ Ply at 7 1/4″ x 37 1/2″ Large Drawer Front
1 – 3/4″ Ply at 7 3/4″ x 38 3/4″ Large Drawer False Front
6 – 1/4×3/4″ Trim at 37 1/4″ Top and Bottom Trim
4 – 1/4×3/4″ Trim at 3 1/2″ Shallow Drawer Side Trim
2 – 1/4×3/4″ Trim at 7 3/4″ Large Drawer Side Trim
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Create your Plywood or MDF Panels by fastening them to the 1×2's (rails) sitting flush with the inside edge of the 1×2's and using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock or 2 1/2″ Screws, use glue.
Then fasten your panels (attached to the rails) to the legs using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 3″ screws to fasten the panels to the legs, and be sure to countersink and use glue.
Flip your unit over and fasten the rails and panels in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use your 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the panels to the rails and then use 3″ screws to fasten the rails (with panels) to the legs, and be sure to countersink. The series of rails should be spaced 3 3/4″ apart.
Attach your drawer glides. Doing this now, will make it much easier.
Build 2 Shallow Drawers as indicated below. The bottom is inset and the drawer is constructed of 1/2″ plywood with a 1×4 false front that sits flush with the bottom of the drawer and is trimmed out. The Drawer front overlaps the sides while the back is inset from the sides. Fasten the False Front to the drawer front using glue and 1″ screws. Use finish nails and glue to fasten the trim in place.
Build the Larger Bottom Drawer.
The bottom is inset and the drawer is constructed of 1/2″ plywood with a false front constructed from 3/4″ ply or mdf, that sits flush with the bottom of the drawer and is trimmed out. The Drawer front overlaps the sides while the back is inset from the sides. Fasten the False Front to the drawer front using glue and 1″ screws. Use finish nails and glue to fasten the trim in place.
Insert the drawers and Fasten the top in place. Use finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.