Free Woodworking Plans to Build the Easiest Wall Cabinet Ever

06.16.11 By //
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Have you always wanted to have the Kitchen of Your Dreams, but didn't think you could? Too expensive? Not a DIY project you feel comfortable handling? Say no more… We continue our Dream Kitchen Series with a Single Wall Cabinet. We will continue with door and drawer stylings as well as double and triple cabinet systems.

Estimated Cost 


Dimensions for This Project

  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw
  • **Kreg Jig – optional, can be done without…but honestly not sure why you would want to. This tool simplifies the building process exponentially.
  • ** Finish nail gun – optional, but will make the process faster and easier especially if you are working on an entire kitchen!
  • **You can buy full sheets if you plan to build several cabinets.
  • 1/2 sheet- 3/4″ Plywood (a lower grade is fine).
  • 1/2 sheet – 1/2″ Plywood (a lower grade is fine)
  • 1/2 sheet – 1/4″ Plywood (this will be showing on the sides of outside cabinets, but will not show on the back or inside cabinet walls).
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 8'
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 6'
  • **Kreg Jig Owners: 1″ Pocket Hole Screws, 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1 1/4″ Screws 5/8″ Screws
  • 2″ Finish Nails
  • 3″ drywall screws or wall dog anchors
  • 12 adjustable shelf pins (for 3 shelves)
  • 1 pair of overlay hinges door handle
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List 
  • 2 – 1/4″ Ply @ 30″ x 11 1/4″ Outside Panels
  • 1 – 1/4″ Ply @ 29 1/4″ x 17 1/2″ Back
  • 2 – 1/2″ Ply @ 26 3/4″ x 10 7/8″ Inside Upper Panels
  • 2 – 1/2″ Ply @ 1 3/4″ x 10 7/8″ Inside Lower Panels
  • 2 – 3/4″ Ply @ 10 1/4″ x 16 1/2″ Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ Ply @ 10 7/8″ x 17 1/2″ Bottom Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ Ply @ 11 1/2″ x 17 1/2″ Top
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 30″ Sides of Face Frame
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 15″ Top Rail Face Frame
  • 2- 1×2 @ 16 1/2″ Cleats 1 – 1×3 @ 15″ Bottom Rail Face Frame
  • 2 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Solid Trim for Shelves @ 16 1/2″

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

Cut your Side Panels to size as indicated in the diagram below.

Step 2

Step 2 

We will begin constructing the interior panels: I have made this so easy for you in the way I have designed this. You don't need a table saw to create Dadoes, or a stopper on your drill for Shelf Bracket holes…it's just plain easy. Cut your interior panel pieces to size (this will be mirrored on the opposite side, so truly you will need 4 pieces total) and mark out the area for your shelf peg holes. You won't need them in the upper 3″ or the bottom 8 3/4″ or so, since you will have a bottom shelf. You can create a template with the dimensions shown below, for ease of use, then flip it around to do the other side. They also sell this sort of thing, and there is no reason why you can't simply mark out your places and drill, just be sure you are accurate so your shelf isn't sloping. Drill all the way through and don't worry about having to put a stopper on your drill. Easy… Space your holes about an 1 1/2″ apart.

Step 3

Step 3 

Attach the cleats at the back of your side panels. It will sit flush with the top and back of the panels on both sides and flush with the top and back of the bottom panel as well. These can be attached using your Pocket Hole System set for 1/2″ stock or with 1 1/4″ Screws from the outside of the panels. This is how you will ultimately attach your cabinet to the wall using your dry wall screws.

Step 4

Step 4 

Attach the Outside Panels, and insert your bottom shelf. The bottom shelf will help you align your interior panels so they “fit” the outside panels properly. Attach the bottom shelf using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ stock. It will attach to the bottom interior panels. Your outside panels will sit flush with the front of the Interior panels and there will be a 3/4″ overhang on the top and 3/8″ overhang at the back side to allow for the back and a bit of wiggle room later. Tack on the back, it will sit right inside the space created by the outside panels and will stop flush with the cleats at the top. Use 5/8″ screws to attach the interior and exterior panels together along with glue and use 5/8″ screws or 1″ nails to secure the back to the interior panels, cleats and shelf.

Step 5

Step 5 

Cut your shelves to size, attach the solid trim to the front edge using finish nails and glue. Attach the top to the interior panels, cleat, and the back. Use your Kreg Jig to attach from the interior panels underneath set for 1/2″ stock or 5/8″ screws from the top down into the interior panels.

Step 6

Build the Face Frame: use your Pocket hole System to build the frame, and place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) set for 3/4″ stock. Then attach to the cabinet using 2″ finish nails. If you aren't using a PHS, attach the Frame pieces directly to the cabinet using 2″ finish nails.

Finishing Instructions 

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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