Free Woodworking Plans to Build an Ann Marie Toddler Daybed

06.15.11 By //

Project Image

There is no reason your little one's have to go without style for their furniture. Big kid style in a little kid's room is the highest compliment you can pay to your cherished ones. Don't be fooled by the name of this bed, this is for boys as much as it is girls. I decided to name this bed, and possibly the collection to follow, after my aunt who recently passed.

This bed is what I would like to term a lifetime bed, and while it isn't a crib also, as most lifetime beds are, this should transition easily into a full sized bed with three of the sides: back, left, and right acting as a winged headboard for a full sized mattress. Just a few modifications will allow for this transition when your child is ready for an even bigger big boy or girl bed.

I will be providing plans for several pieces to coordinate with this, including shelving, storage, a desk or play surface and will be providing plans for adult bed sizes with options for storage underneath, a trundle, or open for decorative purposes and instructions for upholstering this winged headboard if you prefer that! Stay tuned, this should be an exciting collection!

If you happen to be partial to greens, in minty greens and yellows : (this one is my personal fav, and likely the one my boy will be getting in the very near future!)

Dimensions for This Project



Tape Measure




Jig Saw – to create the curved sides.


Pneumatic Nailer for Finish Nails (Finish Nail Gun) or Finish Nail Set and Hammer.


2 – Sheets of 3/4″ MDF or Plywood. A sheet is typically 4'x8'.

3 – 1×4 at 8'

1 – 1×3 at 10'

8 – 1×2 at 10'


2″ Coarse Thread Screws (drywall screws would be perfect)

1 1/4″ Coarse Thread Screws

1 1/4″ Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Spackle or Iron on Edge Banding for exposed cut edges.

Cut List 

1 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF at 52 x 33 3/4″ (Back)

2 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF at 29 x 33 3/4″ (Sides)

1 – 3/4″ Sheet of MDF at 53 1/2 x 11 1/4″ (Front)

9 – 1×4 at 27 1/2″ (Bed Slats) – can be substituted for plywood or mdf, but several 1×4 slats at 27 1/2″ each and spaced about 4″ apart is much less expensive.

1 – 1×3 at 52″ (Bottom Trim – Back)

1 – 1×3 at 55″ (Top Trim – Back)

2 – 1×2 at 55″ (Top Trim – Front and Front Bottom Base)

6 – 1×2 at 52″ (Cleats, various Trim on Front and Back)

2 – 1×2 at 49″ (Trim)

4 – 1×2 at 33 3/4″ (Trim for Sides and Back)

2 – 1×2 at 29 3/4″ (Bottom Base for Sides)

2 – 1×2 at 26 3/4″ (Side Trim)

2 – 1×2 at 21 3/4″ (Trim on Inside Back)

4 – 1×2 at 11 1/4″ (Trim for Front and Sides)

2 – 1×2 at 4 1/2″ (Cleats Supports on Sides)

2 – 1×2 at 3 3/4″ (Cleat Supports on Back)


This particular plan is meant to be painted, and uses MDF to allow for smooth paint application, however if you prefer a natural look for this bed, you can use premium plywood for the main components or connect dimensional lumber using a Kreg Jig to join each board, and then carve with a jig saw to create the curved sides. Either option would be stunning.

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Step 1 

Attach the Back to a 1×3 by centering it on the 1×3. This should leave 3/4″ on either side which will accommodate your trim later. Use 2″ Screws and Glue to attach.

Step 2

Step 2 

Attach your Cleat Supports, Cleat, and Trim on the interior side of the Back Piece. Use 1 1/4″ Screws and glue to attach the Cleat and Supports. Use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails to attach the trim.

Step 3

Step 3 

Cut your sides to size and carve out a half circle arc, using a Jig Saw. You will want begin your arc 1 1/2″ in along the top and 3/4″ in from the side edge to allow for trim placement later. I have given the dimensions your arc should be applied and you can simply hand draw a relatively similar shape as shown in the image below and cut. This doesn't have to replicate my arc exactly, it simply needs to begin no higher than 11 1/4″ in height along the side and to allow for trim placement. Otherwise this exact shape is at your discretion. Make it steep and highly curved or loose and low like mine. I suggest drawing on one side and cutting, then using that side as a template for the next side to ensure accuracy.

** Optional- you can cut 2 – 1.5″ wide strips of MDF in the same arc as your sides to trim out the upper part of your sides.

Step 4

Step 4 

Attach the Sides to the Back Piece: Use 2″ Screws and Glue, the sides should be flush with the outside (back) of the back piece as well as the top of the back piece, but will be 3/4″ shorter than the back and it's bottom trim are. This will allow for the bottom trim on the sides to be attached in the next step.

Step 5

Step 5 

Attach the bottom trim for the Sides, use a 1×2 leaving the overhang on the outside of the Side. This will accommodate the trim later. this will extend 3/4″ beyond the back edge of the side and be flush with the front edge of the side.

Step 6

Step 6 

Attach the trim to the outside of the Sides and the Inner Cleat Support: Use 1 1/4″ Finish nails on the outside Trim and 1 1/4″ Screws on the Cleat Support. The cleat Support will be flush with the ground and bottom of the Base trim. It will not rest on the base trim itself. The 11 1/4″ Trim piece will sit 3/4″ beyond the edge of the Side itself to create a pocket for the front to sit in and to cover the edge of the front piece.

Step 7

Step 7 

Attach the Front to the Sides: Use 1 1/4″ Screws to attach to the sides and 1 1/4″ Finish Nails to fasten to the Side Trim. Attach the base trim to the Front piece with 1 1/4″ Screws and allow the 3/4″ overhang of the trim to lie on the front side. This will accommodate the trim later.

Step 8

Step 8 

Attach the Inner Cleat to the inside of the Front Piece: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Glue. It should rest right on top of the Cleat Supports that you fastened to the sides. The cleat supports are not so much for support as to give you a guide for placement and a tad extra support for those rambunctious babies some of us have (ahem…me!)!

Step 9

Step 9 

Attach the front Trim and then cover the top of the front with another piece of 1×2 trim for a more finished look. This top trim will be 55″ in length and will sit perfectly over the front piece and it's trim. Use 1 1/4″ Finish Nails and glue.

Step 10

Step 10 
Attach the trim to the outside of the back as shown and fasten a 1×3 along the top to finish off (not shown here). Use 1 1/4" Finish Nails and glue.

Add a series of 1×4 slats on top of your cleats spaced 4" apart for setting the mattress on. You can screw them down if you prefer using 1 1/4" screws and glue.

To finish this project well, use iron on edge banding along exposed edges or you can run your finger along any exposed cut edges of the MDF (this will likely only be your arcs) with a thin layer of Spackle. Once it dries fully, you can sand it flush and finish as desired. Prime first, then paint and make sure to seal with a polyurethane. If you intend to paint a light color, an aerosol lacquer will be more ideal as it is just as durable but does not yellow in time as Poly does.


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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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