When I saw this furniture piece, I knew I had to draw plans for it! I just knew…it was like the drafting fates were speaking to me through those fabulous interwebs and calling my name. So, needless to say, the plans were drawn and the fun begins! At least for all of you who might like to build this fine piece of furniture! I suppose I will have to expand my family a bit before I am able to build another activity table, since I already built this one for my boy, (pictures of that are here)! Today’s piece has tons of storage and drawers on both sides, for double the fun and twice the organization!
- Tape Measure
- Kreg Jig
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards. Miter Saw – optional and can use straight cut boards instead.
- Jig Saw – for carving the hand holds
- 3 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 6’
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 5 – 1×2 at 10’
- 2 – 1×8 at 8’
- 4 – 2×4 at 8’
- 2 – 2×4 at 10’
- 1 Sheet 3/4” Plywood at 4’x8’
- 2 1/2” Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 2″ Finish Nails or Screws
- 1 1/4” Finish Nails or Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 13 1/2” Legs
- 6 – 2×2 at 27” Side Panel Rails and Supports
- 4 – 2×2 at 40 1/4” Unit Rails
- 38 – 1×2 at 9” Side Panels and Center Divide Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 27” Lower Frame Supports
- 8 – 1×2 at 28 1/2” Drawer Slide Tracks
- 8 – 1×2 at 13 1/4” Drawer Slide
- 8 – 1×8 at 13 1/4” Drawer Sides
- 4 – 1×8 at 16 5/8” Drawer Backs
- 2 – 2×4 at 44 3/4” Top Perimeter Boards
- 2 – 2×4 at 31 1/2” Top Perimeter Boards
- 7 – 2×4 at 37 3/4” Center Panels of Top
- 4 – 3/4” Ply at 8” x 19 5/8” Drawer Fronts
- 4 – 3/4” Ply at 16 5/8” x 12 1/2” Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 27” x 10 1/2” Center Divider
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 40 1/4” x 27” Bottom Shelf
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your Side Panels: This can be a bit tricky, but my suggestion when working with a series of adjacent 1×2’s (which aren’t really wide enough for back to back pocket holes) is that you might consider gluing them together and clamping until the glue has set, and then secure them to the Panel Rails (blue) on every other board alternating between top and bottom. You can of course fasten each board the rails on the top and bottom I only refrain from suggesting it given how many screws you will need. But I leave this choice to you. Know that most retail furniture is built almost entirely using glue so you can be sure this is not an issue, but I leave the quantity of screws you use to fasten together each panel a decision for your pocket book! Fasten the Rails to the Legs using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. The panels of 1×2’s will sit flush with the inside of the legs and rails as shown below.
Attach the Rails and Top Supports : Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue to attach the Rails and Supports. The placement of the supports (yellow) just need to be placed so that they sit centered between the center divide you will add in a later step and the Legs/Side Panels. Scroll Below to see the placement of the Center Divide, but you can guess that it will be placed in the center. Just as in the step below (#3) the placement does not need to be precise, but should roughly end up halfway between the half way point…confused yet? heheh
Fasten the Lower Frame in Place: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. It isn’t really that important how far apart you space them, I chose to space them equally below, but they are for support and do not need to be precisely placed.
Attach the Bottom: Use 1 1/4” finish nails and glue or 1 1/4” screws and glue from underneath.
Fasten the Center Divide and Center Trim Pieces in Place: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten in place.
Add the Slides: Use 1 1/4” screws and glue to attach and place them 3/4” back from the edge on the front and back and the bottom slide track will sit 1 1/2” from the bottom of the shelf or bottom and the top track piece will sit 1 1/2” from the bottom track piece.
Build the Drawers: You will be constructing 4 of these, all precisely the same. Carve out the hand hold on the front panel according to the measurements shown below. The bottom will be inset and so will the back. The sides, back and bottom will all sit flush with the bottom of the drawer front. Place the drawer slide or runner 3” from the bottom on both sides and attach using 1 1/4” screws and glue from the inside. To construct the drawer, place your pocket holes in the bottom to attach it to the sides, front, and back. You will place your pocket holes in the back piece to attach it to the sides and you will place them on the sides near the drawer front to attach them accordingly. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Build and Attach the Top: The Top will be constructed out of 2×4’s unless of course you prefer to use plywood with 2×4 surround. Miter the corners on the surrounding pieces and fasten together using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue. For the center panel or adjacent boards, place your pocket holes in every other board with the holes facing outward and be sure to secure to the perimeter boards as well. Attach to the Unit using 2” finish nails and glue to fasten from the top or fasten from underneath using 2” screws.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.