For all you gardener's out there, here is a little treat for you…
- Tape Measure
- 2 – 4×4 – 6'
- 1 – 4×4 at 8'
- 1 – 1×6 at 6'
- 1 – 2×6 at 6'
- 1 – 2×10 at 6'
- 2 – 2×8 at 6'
- 4 – 1×3 at 8' (3 of these will cover the front/back/shelf aprons and the spacers, the other will cover the side aprons)
- 2 – 1×3 at 10' (this will cover the table supports)
- 6 – 2×4 at 6'
- 3″ Screws – use Galvanized or Stainless for outdoor use
- 2″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Finishing Supplies or Sealant for outdoor use.
- 2 – 4×4 at 37″ (Front Legs)
- 2 – 4×4 at 59″ (Back Legs)
- 10 – 1×3 at 1 3/4″ (Spacers)
- 4 – 1×3 at 16 3/4″ (Side Aprons)
- 10 – 1×3 at 20 3/4″ (Table Supports)
- 5 – 1×3 at 45″ (Front/Back/Shelf Aprons)
- 2 – 2×8 at 52″ (Top Table Tops)
- 1 – 2×10 at 52″ (Top Table Tops)
- 1 – 1×6 at 45″ (Shelf Back)
- 1 – 2×6 at45″ (Shelf)
- 4 – 2×4 at 52″ (Inside Bottom Tops)
- 2 – 2×4 at 45″ (Outside Bottom Tops)
If you are making this for outdoor use, purchase wood that holds up well to weather and moisture. This might include Cedar, Redwood, and Teak , but I would ask your local lumber supply for appropriate wood species for your area and climate. You should Finish and Seal all boards prior to assembling if this is for outdoor use. This will keep it water tight and protected.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Attach Spacers to the legs: B to A (Red to Leg). Each leg will have 2 spacers (the back legs will each have 3, but we will attach the top 2 for the shelf later). These will be fastened flush with the inside of the leg and placed 1 1/2″ from the top of the leg for the shorter front legs. They will be placed 5″ from the bottom of the legs on all 4 and will be placed 33″ from the bottom on the back 2 taller legs. Use glue and 2″ Screws.
Place 1 1/2″ from the top of the Front Legs.
Place 33″ from the bottom of the Back 2 Legs.
Place 5″ from the bottom on all 4 legs.
Build the Frame (2): Attach the Table Supports to the Front and Back Aprons. E to F (Blue to Red) Use 2″ Screws and Glue.
Space as shown below.
Attach Frame to Legs: The Frame will attach flush with the bottom and top of the spacers and you will have a 1″ setback on from the outside front and back edge to the frame. Use 2″ Screws and Glue.
Attach the Side Aprons to the Spacers: D to C, use 2″ Screws and glue.
Attach Spacers and Shelf Apron to the upper Back Legs: C to B. Spacers will be flush with the back of the back legs and the top of the Spacer will be 4″ from the top of the back legs. Use 2″ Screws and Glue. Attach the Shelf Apron to the Spacers: F to C, use 2″ Screws and Glue. The Apron should be flush with the top and bottom of the spacer and will be setback from the front of the legs by 1″.
Attach the Shelf Back to the Spacers: I to C, place the Shelf Back flush with the Top of the Legs, use 2″ Screws and Glue. This will leave a 1″ space between the bottom of the shelf back and the bottom of the spacers. You can cover this with a 1×1 piece of trim if you like, but this will keep you from having to rip a 1×8 down to a 1×7 and just allows you to use a 1×6 and deal with a small gap.
Attach the Shelf to the Spacer, the Apron, and the Shelf Back: J to I, C, and F, use 2″ Screws and glue.
Form the Top Table Top: This will be comprised of 2 – 2×8 and 1 – 2×10. You will carve out a 3 1/2″ square out of the 4 corners (this will be only carved out of the 2×8's since the 2×10 is the center board and only out of 2 of the 4 corners of the 2×8) as shown below.
Attach the Top Table Top to the Frame: Use 3″ Screws and Glue.
Form the Bottom Table Top: This will be comprised of 6 – 2×4's, the outside 2 will be 7" shorter than the others. Leave about a 1/2" Gap Between each board to allow for drainage (both water and soil).
Attach to the Bottom Frame: using 3″ Screws and Glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.